GAY LAOS IS WORTH A VISIT

[Guest letmetellu]

Gay Laos is worth a visit

 

Do not expect too much: If you think you will find Go-go Bars, massage parlors and gay saunas in Laos as you do in neighboring Thailand, you will definitely be disappointed. Everything is a bit laid back in the Peoples Democratic Republic (PDR) of Laos, one of the last communist states (nominally) on earth. PDR is often translated as "please don't rush" and you are well advised to be patient and a bit discreet, even though there is no overt hostility towards gays. But sex tourism is not encouraged. Before Vientiane became communist in 1975 the girly nightlife of Vientiane was legendary. But nowadays they have a clever law banning sexual intercourse between Laotian women and men who are not their spouses. Use common sense and gay-dar while traveling in Laos.

 

We crossed the bridge from Nong Khai to go to Vientiane, the capital of Laos. Visas for two weeks are available on arrival at the bridge (be sure to have a photo handy). Even though there is a sign stating the cost is 30 US$ per person they wanted 31 US$ from us but gave a receipt for 30$ and another for 1$. Maybe - no joke - because we arrived on a Saturday? In the past there was a special service charge on weekends as well as during lunch time and on holidays, during Lao New Year (called Songkran in Thailand) many border posts are closed for three days, but probably not the one at the friendship bridge in Nong Khai. But you never know . . . There is an "entry fee" of "sau Baht" (twenty Baht), sau is the Laotion word for the Thai yeesip (twenty). The two languages are very similar, more or less two dialects of the same language but some words differ and the written language is completely different.

 

They sprayed the wheels of our bus on the Laotian side (where they drive on the right as in the former colonial power France days) probably trying to prevent the entry of bird flu by disinfection. We would like to call this "job creation" since most birds we know are able to cross the mighty river Mekong by flying over anyhow and are therefore not dependent on an infected bus to cross the bridge. But maybe we did not understand the underlying reasons behind this possibly wise measure - a feeling you might often get in Laos.

 

We got a three wheeled motorcycle (samlor or Tuk Tuk as they are called in Thailand) from the bridge into town. For this ride of twenty something kilometres you are normally charged 300 Baht, if you believe the sign they show you. We got that ride for 100 Baht since we captured one that had just taken some people to the bridge and was not part of the bridge taxi mafia.

 

We decided to reside, this time, at the Mali Namphu Guest House right in the center of town. Rooms are moderately priced at 15 to 21 US$ including a very simple breakfast consisting of tea or coffee and French bread and jam. (www.malinamphu.com, malinamphu@comcast.net, malinamp@laotel.com) The rooms are grouped on two levels around a garden court, very nice and quiet. We suspect the head receptionist who showed us the room was one of us, but we were (sad to say) not molested at all.

 

The hotel is about 30 metres away from the Namphu fountain. Do not expect to see a fountain since it was removed about ten or twelve years ago. There used to be beer bars around that fountain but they have vanished with it. Nowadays this so-called fountain is just a square with some good restaurants around it, arguably the very centre of town. Be aware, it can be cruisy at night.

 

If you pass that fountain square and go straight down to the river you will find a restaurant and beer bar without a name (the last in that area on the left hand side). Go there for a sundowner. You may recall the Johnny Cash song "A boy named Sue", a 19 year old waiter with exactly that strange name works there and he was begging us to meet him after work for drinks and, who knows, hanky panky. There were other guys there who were eager to contact us as well. Bingo, the approach of middle age has not attenuated our ability to find the right places! If you cannot find Sue or the place described here, cruise around the different river bars and restaurants or go to the in-disco at night and keep your eyes open for that very special corner. Use your eyes, they do.

 

On the way to Luang Prabang, we stayed two nights in Vangvieng. You can book a so called VIP bus at your hotel, it takes about 6 hours to reach that backpacker heaven. The main attraction of the place is the river where a canoe trip is a must. Walking on the main road we saw a sign of a bar and guesthouse called "Babylon". Naturally we had a beer there and it was what we thought it might be. The view of one of the pool players bending over the table was remarkable; and would easily win the rear of the year contest of Laos, if it existed. You can contact the owner of "Babylon" and make a room reservation through e-mail: mrnicky@hotmail.com

 

Another bus brought us finally to Luang Prabang the former capital and famous World Heritage Site. Just walk around there for hours, you will be enthralled at all there is to see. Try going in the one place in the main road where they fly the rainbow flag or use gay-dar. Or have dinner at "Chez Pierre" restaurant in the Sackarinh Guest House (also in the main road). Swiss owner Peter has lived in Laos many years and can give you good advice in any sense. The food there is terrific, by the way.

 

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