A Gorgeous Part of China

[Guest fountainhall]

I'm not sure if this should be in the Beer Bar, as it involves regional travel, or Gay China. I'm posting here since my recent trip to China did involve a number of pleasing encounters .

 

I am not really a typical tourist or traveller. Thanks to my work, I have been fortunate to visit many places that over the years I have known about and wanted to see. Other times, I see something on TV or in a magazine – and almost on the spur of the moment, I decide: “That’s it! I definitely want to go there!”

 

This week, I have been in one such place. Frankly, I had never heard of Jiuzhaigou (pronounced Joo-jai-goo) until I read an article last December in, of all journals, BK Magazine. It was headed by a large photo of a lake with a hillside covered in glorious autumn colours. It explained that whilst the Jiuzhaigou National Park in China’s Sichuan Province has always been popular with Chinese visitors – indeed, some 30,000 a day visit in the peak autumn season – it is gradually becoming popular with western visitors. Having now been there, I know exactly why. This World Heritage site is a stunning series of three valleys covering an area of approximately 720 sq. kms, and one of the most scenically beautiful parts of our planet! ‘Jiuzhaigou’ means Nine Villages, a reference to the nine Tibetan villages that are home to the only people permitted to live within the Park.

 

Why Go?

 

What makes it so special? Some say the water in its extraordinary series of lakes and ponds, with their myriad shades of blues, greens and purples. Or its many waterfalls. Or at this time of year, the stunning autumn colours that adorn the lower reaches of the high rocky mountains that border the valleys. Nature at its most pristine and glorious.

 

Getting there

 

Having made the decision to go, ideally I wanted to hit the Park around next week (starting 23rd) when the fall colours will usually be at their finest. To get there from Bangkok, the cheapest way seems to be to fly first to Chengdu, the capital of Sichuan province (where the spicy food comes from!). THAI has a non-stop flight several days of the week. However, a major trade fare opened in Chengdu on the 20th when inbound flights are full, hotels packed and everything more expensive. So I opted for a week earlier – when consequently, the colours were not at their most magnificent.

 

Whilst there are short 40-minute flights up to Jiuzhaigou virtually every 30 minutes, you really have no choice but to overnight in Chengdu on both outward and inward sectors. This is because the airport serving Jiuzhaigou is situated at 3,500 meters. When it’s sunny, as it was when I flew in, it is I suspect the most amazingly spectacular of all airport descents. You first of all see below you incredibly huge rock structures – not ridges or ranges, more like monstrous stalagmites – many snow-covered. Then you start weaving though them with stone and rock floating past the windows, and the wings seemingly about to hit something – hard! And then – bump – you are on this high plateau coming to a stop (if not, prayers will be the only way of staying alive!)

 

I have flown into some ‘interesting’ airports in my time – Hong Kong’s old Kai Tak, Bhutan’s Paro and Nepal’s Kathmandu being amongst the most spectacular. But absolutely nothing in my experience beats Jiuzhai Hanleong airport! I was kicking myself that I did not have the camera at the ready.

 

But because the airport is so high, you are at the mercy of the weather. When the clouds descend, your flight will be delayed. My return was held up for nearly 4 hours, with the result that I missed my connection and had to stay in Chengdu for 2 extra days (but there were compensations, as I describe below). If you want, there is also a much cheaper alternative – an 8-hour winding bus journey up from Chengdu.

 

But my arrival was smooth. From the airport’s 3,500 meters, you then drive down the 90 kms to a more breathable 2,000 meters. On the way, you realize that this has for millennia been part of the eastern edge of the Tibetan plateau (it's almost exactly due north of Bangkok). En route, you pass by many small villages with their brightly coloured prayer flags and the people in their colourful costumes. You may also see the monastery that is being rebuilt, for this was where the dreadful earthquake struck some 3 years ago.

 

What To See

 

The town at the entrance to the National Park is nothing more than a small village of around 1,200 people – and 300 hotels! So most visitors come just for a couple of days with the sole objective of marveling at the Park’s wonders. Given that the valleys rise from 2,000 – 4,000 meters, to cope with such large numbers there is an intricate transport system. Buses take you to the top of each valley, drop you off and then you start on some of the hundreds of wooden paths and steps to start exploring. When you want to move on, there are shuttle bus stops every 400 meters or so to take you to another part.

 

I was there for 2 night/3 days. I had decided to stay at the Sheraton, one of the 2 international brand hotels just outside the Park (there are no hotels inside for the Park closes at night) – the other being an Inter-Continental. The Sheraton certainly did not fit that international branding, though. Even with a buffet breakfast, buffet dinner and internet thrown in, the price was vastly extravagant. But then there is accommodation to suit most budgets (although not backpackers as the whole experience would be too expensive). If you are not on an inclusive tour, entrance to the Park is a pretty steep RMB 300 (approx. US$47).

 

I was so thankful that I had such great weather for my time in the Park, for when I left for the airport early the following morning, it was raining with low cloud cover. As we got higher, absolutely everything was covered in snow. I felt so sorry for those visiting the Park that day! Another reason, I guess, for allowing two full days there just in case you hit one bad one.

 

Chengdu

 

In Chengdu itself, a city of some 14 million inhabitants, there are several scenic wonders 150 kms or so away. But very little to see within the city – apart from the Panda Nature Reserve to the north which is obviously a ‘must’ if you are staying there.

 

As for evening entertainment, I had no joy on gayromeo, but, as usual, fridae turned up trumps. I enjoyed meetings with three attractive young guys filling my two evenings and one morning. Morning? He'd told me he was only free today and said he wanted to arrive in time to give me a “wake up” call He was gorgeous and immediately made me want to stay a few more days! According to utopia-asia.com, Chengdu is sometimes called the gay capital of China. But there is very little in the way of bars and clubs, and the friends I met all said there is little openly gay activity.

 

But then it was that National Park that was the reason for the trip. It fulfilled all my expectations – and then some!

 

Other Ways to Make the Trip

 

Because of the expense of making a trip just to see the National Park - and since I found Chengdu as a city pretty boring, I’d suggest making it the centerpiece of a longer China trip. Jiuzhaigou’s airport is also served by non-stop flights from Shanghai and Beijing, as well as from Xian where the terracotta warrior tombs are located (which would be my No. 1 choice) and Chongching. But wherever your departure point, try at all costs to get a window seat on the left side of the aircraft. That arrival into Jiuzhaigou will blow your mind!

[Guest thaiworthy]

He'd told me he was only free today and said he wanted to arrive in time to give me a

[Guest fountainhall]

Free is better than expensive!

Hehe! And none of these guys even wanted a bus or taxi fare from me! I do generally find this to be the case when I meet guys from fridae.com, unlike some of those on gayromeo.

 

why is it whenever you post these travelogs I want to start packing?

No doubt for the same reason I wanted to go in the first place! It was just that one photo and a short description in BK Magazine that made me decide to go to Jiuzhaigou. I guess I must be slightly mad, because I do splash out on trips that I cannot really afford. But I no longer have the luxury of time. Nor do I have a bunch of dependants, as everyone in my family is better off the me! So, since you can't take it with you, I want to enjoy more of what the region offers. After Taipei for the Gay Parade next week-end, it will be Harbin in north-east China for the famous Ice Sculpture Festival in mid January! Mad - but fun! I am even hoping that my "wake-up" caller this morning might want to join me there. After all, I'll need someone to keep me warm in those freezing temperatures!

[pong]

nice pix! It is no secret: the tipical bekpek style guides have this place since a few yrs in the books. But the curse of chiense tourist travel is exactly those domestic Chinese (like on my last trip into yun-nan=south of the clouds): too many of them, a barrier with a hefty entrance fee at every conceivable and more spots, JPNese style tourgroups with those flags and all with the same type/colour of baseball cap on.

Funny to see now you also admire BK-mag: I always make it one of my first to grab it somewhere after arr in BKk-wetcity. A perhaps fairly cheap way to reach it is on AirAsia-via KUL then. And Chengdu gained a direct link to AMSterdam on KLm a year or so ago-coming from West-Eur. A the Chiense Embassy in BKK (near Fortune Town-on the MRT) you can easily and without fuss get a tourist visa for China- 1100 THB for NOn-USA (these pay 140 US$=the same as you charge them for entry)

and perhaps 9my cinic mind) any city in mainland China that has over 3 gays may once be called ''the gay capital of china?'' in utopian thinking

[Guest fountainhall]

But the curse of chiense tourist travel is exactly those domestic Chinese (like on my last trip into yun-nan=south of the clouds): too many of them, a barrier with a hefty entrance fee at every conceivable and more spots, JPNese style tourgroups with those flags and all with the same type/colour of baseball cap on.

I agree domestic tourism can indeed be a curse - and not only in National Parks. Even the large Sheraton in jiuzhaigou only has 30 out of several hundred rooms designated as non-smoking!

 

But I do think you are being slightly unfair. That may be the case in Yunnan - and indeed may be the case in Jiuzhaigou, for all I know. But I did not see much evidence of it, despite this being the absolute peak season. My guide and I entered the Park when it opened at 7:00 am and when there can have been no more than two or three hundred others waiting. We then ascended to the top of one of the Valleys to start our descent. For the first 2 - 3 hours, we saw no groups, no tours - only a few individual visitors who overtook us. That Park is so large there are plenty of ways of avoiding the crowds. And even in my 3 hours at the Panda Reserve, which I thought would be packed, I saw just two groups and lots of space where there was no-one!

 

As with all tourism everywhere, I reckon good planning and assistance from 'good' local guides help avoid a lot of the pitfalls.

 

Funny to see now you also admire BK-mag: I always make it one of my first to grab it somewhere after arr in BKk-wetcity.

I thought lots of people read it. It certainly has a lot of useful information from time to time, although I was surprised to see it promote a destination that is quite so far from BKK.

 

A perhaps fairly cheap way to reach it is on AirAsia-via KUL

Well, that surely depends on your priorities and how much you want to save! TG takes just under 3 hours and departs/arrives at good times - 10:15 to Chengdu and 17:30 back at BKK. Travel time on Air Asia via KUL takes from 9 - 13 hours on the way to Chengdu with an arrival there at 22:40. The return arrives back in KL at 04:35 in the morning. If economy is what you're after, sure Air Asia is great. But it's cheapest fare is only about Bt. 2,500 less than TG's promo economy fare. I know which I prefer!

 

my cinic mind) any city in mainland China that has over 3 gays may once be called ''the gay capital of china?'' in utopian thinking

Probably depends on which magazine/site you are checking. The view I gave was only the one from utopia-asia. Odd, though, it does not say that of bigger cities like Beijing and Shanghai which certainly have a lot more gay bars and clubs!

[Guest]

Thanks for posting the photos of such spectacular scenery.

[ChristianPFC]

Thank you for this nice report.

[pong]

wrote my first response a few days ago. Since then I chekced my trusty LP-guidebook for Cina from 2009 (thus mostly with data from 07/08)-there is a new edition since out.

There are 4-5 pages on this and another smaller bu definitely more bekpek-friendly park nearby. On JZG is mainly says: 1,5 mlj domestic tourists and 20.000 hotelrooms-guess that must have doubled since. nd it does mention a few bekpek-cheapo places to stay- some 3-4 kms away from the main gates (entry a hefty 200 CNY=1000THB- has this also been increased? does one have to pay to see at Swiss snow-capped mountains?) without bus.

The nearby town of Songpan (does not mean 2000) is the bekpek aimed nearby town and has plenty of cheap guesthss and hostels and is famous for horsetreks (all guided and no fear) in that park-from 1/2 till 4-5 days). The bus ride to Chengdu takes 10-12 hrs-but maybe there is also some new tollway now shortening this.

But good to read that it may sometimes even be possible that masses of mainland domestic tourists do not spoil tghe whole adventure. In geenral my opinion is, that the area were the Han-Chinese were not domestic and thus other ''tribes'' were living, are the best. This area is about half Tibetan-a very funny ''tribe'' indeed. I visited Chengdu -and Xian on my first 2 Chinatrips before 1990-when half the people were still wearing blue mao jackets etc. The approach by air into what is called Lhasa airprot (some 90 kms away from that town) is also amazing!

And somehow I still think that those terracotta warriors statues near Xian are secretly being fabricated in some top-secret workplace behind all those closed off places. In 1988/89 there was just 1 hall with them-now many more. So far runs my distrust- or admiration -of the abilities of the Chinese to copy each and everything. They even build new towns looking like old medieval.......purely for the tourist attraction.

[Guest fountainhall]

I chekced my trusty LP-guidebook for Cina from 2009 (thus mostly with data from 07/08)-there is a new edition since out . . . On JZG is mainly says: 1,5 mlj domestic tourists and 20.000 hotelrooms-guess that must have doubled since.

I sometimes wonder who provides all the statistics we read about in various books and sites. Your guidebook says 1.5 million visitors - probably in 2007/8. WIkitravel says "In 2007, over 2.5 million people visited Jiuzhaigou!"

 

Like everything, there is a huge variation in attendance and prices between low and peak seasons, including Park entry fees. For example, the same Wikitravel page says this of the Sheraton Resort -

 

"there is a Sheraton that can be had for about 500-800RMB/night through travel agents."

 

Well, I can say from experience that the list price for the peak season on flyers at Reception has rooms from 3,000 RMB - up!! Agents (especially the China Travel Service) will of course get some discount, but since many westerners and wealthier Chinese/Asian visitors choose to stay there or at the Intercon, the agency discount at this time of year will not be much. So prices have certainly risen dramatically in the last few years.

 

The nearby town of Songpan (does not mean 2000) is the bekpek aimed nearby town and has plenty of cheap guesthss and hostels and is famous for horsetreks (all guided and no fear) in that park-from 1/2 till 4-5 days).

Songpan certainly has a lot of very affordable rooms for backpackers. And it's historically more interesting with its connection to the Long March. But I'm not sure what qualifies as "nearby" as I understand it is a good 3-hour bus journey from JZG. I have no idea about that Park there with its horse riding, but horses get nowhere near the JZG National Park. Only park buses and a lot of people!

 

The approach by air into what is called Lhasa airprot (some 90 kms away from that town) is also amazing!

So I have heard. I hope to go there next year - this time with my camera ready for the descent.

 

And somehow I still think that those terracotta warriors statues near Xian are secretly being fabricated in some top-secret workplace behind all those closed off places.

Hehe! I suspect you may well be right! A virtual Wagnerian tribe of sweatshop Nibelungs mass producing masses of fake statues!

[pong]

AirAsia has just announced new flights direct from BKK to ChongChing-with promosyen fares starting @ 1500 THB now. They specifically mentioned this Chinese Swiss Alps imitation as easy to get onward to.

[Guest fountainhall]

They specifically mentioned this Chinese Swiss Alps imitation as easy to get onward to.

 

The fares are great value - if you fancy being plonked down in Chongqing, one of the largest urban sprawls on the planet, with the greater Chongqing municipality home to around 28 million souls.

 

Air Asia's site certain refers to the ease of getting to Jiuzhaigou from Chongqing. I assume you are referring to JGZ when you make a similarity to the Swiss Alps. There is no similarity. All the airline's site calls it is "among China's top tourist destinations."