Hi everyone. I've been lurking on this site for a while and decided to sign up to make a contribution to this thread - only to find that by the time I've gone through the clearance process Z909 has recommended pretty much my itinerary! I did it at much the same time as him as well, because I transited Bangkok on the way back to the UK three days (I think) before the yellow shirts closed the airport. The only differences were that I spent 5 days each in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap - Phnom Penh for Bon Om Tuk and Siem Reap because I wanted to see Beng Melea and Koh Ker in the outlying temples. I also flew back from Siem Reap to Bangkok, because of my schedule. There were some relatively cheap fares to be had, but a lomg time in advance
A few things I might add, though:
Bon Om Tuk was my must see for Phnom Penh. Its a huge longboat festival, taking place alomg the river in front of Sisowath Quay. Over 400 boats take part, so there's plenty of eye candy in the crews. The whole town is en fete for the three days - firework displays and illuminated barges on the river at night, funfairs, outdorr music stands and so forth by day. Very friendly, very happy crowds. If you go at that time though, some of the usual touristy venues - Royal Palace, Silver Pagoda and National Museum are closed.
Bon Om Tuk is 19th-21st November this year.
The bus journey from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap. It's interesting and, if you get a VIP one, comfortable. Costs about $10. I was glad, however, that I had booked a tuk tuk from the hotel to pick me up. I arrived after dark, and the bus terminus was down an unlit soi where I couldn't see my hand in front of my face. I could also have bought a tuk tuk voucher on the bus - recommended at any time of day if you haven't booked a pick up, because the drivers in Siem Reap have a reputation for taking you to the hotel of their choice - where they get a commission!
If you want to book a taxi in Siem Reap, then Mr Tee is really reliable. I used him all the time I was there, and have also recommended him to a friend who speaks equally well of him:
Angkor Wat Tours
I stayed at Golden Banana in Siem Reap. Very pleasant place down a quiet soi, about 10 mins walk from the Old Market. Split level rooms, built around the swimming pool. I have pictures if anyone wants them.
This website has good street maps of Phnom Penh and Siem Reap, plus listings of things to see and do, places to stay and eat, etc.
Cambodia travel guides: Siem Reap, Angkor, Phnom Penh, Sihanoukville - hotels, resturants, maps, airlines and more