China Travelogue: The Glories of Xi'an

[PeterRS]

Of all the sights that tourists want to visit in China, one of the most popular is the famous terracotta army numbering around 8,000 in pits close to the city of Xi'an.This was constructed during the reign of the first Emperor Qin Shi Huang to protect him in the afterlife. Perhaps surprisingly, though, Qin was not buried along with his army. A little west of the army pits is a large earthen mound. This is the Emperor's burial place and it has never been opened.

It's not only overseas tourists who come here. It is allegedly the second most popular tourist site for Chinse tourists. Other than Festivals like Chinese New Year and the annual national holiday for a week at the start of October, expect the city to be quite crowded, although when I was there one year in mid-March it did not seem very crowded.

Xi'an is one of the oldest cities in the country. The first Emperor of the Han Dynasty established the city as the country's capital aorund 200 BC. when it was named Chang'an. The city wall constucted during the much later Ming Dynasty around the 15th century is the oldest such wall in China and the best preserved. About 4 meters wide many tourists enjoy a walk or run around its 14 km length. Naturally the city has since expanded outward way beyond the wall. But most of what you will want to see is contained within the wall's perimiter.

Right in the centre are the two amazing structures - the city's Bell Tower and only a few minutes walk away its Drum Tower. The Bell Tower has an almost magical appearance when lit up after dark.

There are two Wild Goose Pagodas in the city. This is the larger of the two located in a major park. Many older residents like to visit the 44 meter high Giant Wild Goose Pagoda park and dress in old style Imperial clothing for photographs.

Apart fom the terracotta army, another primary reason for visiting the city is its Muslim Quarter. Xi'an after all was the eastern end of the Silk Road and cultural and religious influences flowed both ways. A flourishing Muslim population continues to live in the city and the Muslim Quarter, just a short walk from the Drum Tower, is fascinating. The main Beiyuanmen Street in the Huimin district is packed with vendors selling all kinds of Muslim Street food as well as many restaurants. Off it are many smaller streets, one of which will lead you to the city's Great Mosque, still in use today. Strange at first to see a mosque built in Chinese style! At one time there were 14 mosques in the city, but most were destroyed during the Cultural Revolution. The Great Mosque is both a gathering place for the city's estimated 60,000 Musllims as well as a major tourist attraction.

Much of the rest of the city is fascinating with interesting little courtyards if you are prepared to wander into side streets 

I would leave visiting the terracotta army to the end of your visit. Explore the city first and enjoy its many sights. The terracotta army really should be the climax of the visit. There is just one sight which I would definitely not recommend. There was a Tang Dynasty Dinner show with dinner being optional. I went one evening just to see the show. That meant sitting at the back while the diners were at round tables covering most of the audience area. Just looking at the food being served, I am glad I opted out of that part. It looked tired and boring! I also spent much of the evening wishing I had not even bought a ticket for the show. It was much as one would expect from a tourist-oriented somewhat tacky show. To be fair the Chinese seemed to be enjoying it. I walked out at the interval! Just not my sort of entertainment.

I flew up to Xi'an from Guangzhou where I had been visiting a dear friend. Getting there is easy but the airport is 50 kms outside the city and taxis are not cheap. But there are regular buses and the metro. 

[Moses]

Also Xi'an is a starting point to visit one of 5 sacred mounts of China. It is the "Western Mountain" of the Five Great Mountains. It is located 120km from Xi'an.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mount_Hua

 

 

 

[PeterRS]

1 hour ago, Moses said:

Also Xi'an is a starting point to visit one of 5 sacred mounts of China. It is the "Western Mountain" of the Five Great Mountains. It is located 120km from Xi'an.

Did you go up? The good thing, I guess, is that these five mountains are not especially high. Mt. Hua the nearest to Xi'an is the highest at 2,154 meters as stated on the stone signpost.

[Moses]

5 hours ago, PeterRS said:

Did you go up? The good thing, I guess, is that these five mountains are not especially high. Mt. Hua the nearest to Xi'an is the highest at 2,154 meters as stated on the stone signpost.

Yes.

By the way: it is easy to get to "Heaven gates" because there is cable car up to 1300 meters height. But we spend next 8 hours for to visit all 5 heights there and that wasn't easy, sometimes because of mist/fog (walking within clouds), sometimes because of vertical stairs in the stone, where you should climb using chains as a support for hands. Fabric gloves are highly recommended.

Atmosphere above the clouds is unforgettable: silence, stone, nature and clouds below you...

We visited all 5 "Sacred mountains of China" so far.

View on one of Huashan peaks from highest one.

 

Our guide

 

View on trail to one of the peaks from lowest one (white dots - people on the trail, click to enlarge)

[Moses]

On 6/22/2025 at 6:32 AM, PeterRS said:

About 4 meters wide

Just found it. It is much more wide: few cars may side by side drive by wall.

 

 

View on wall from tower

[Mavica]

I've been to Xi'an once: 1980.  Because there wasn't a foreign tourism network developed yet the small group I traveled with was housed in a military/VIP guesthouse compound.  As I left the compound and walked the streets nearby people gathered around me.  Several students of English spoke with me and the others around me were so impressed with them.  I had a good camera with me and let people look through the lens, and they were fascinated.  I also had a Polaroid camera, took a couple of photos of individuals and there was quite a commotion when others viewed them.  It was as if they'd never seen a photo of themselves before - which I don't think they had.  The Terracotta Warriors were stunningly impressive.

[KeepItReal]

Be careful when visiting China. It is not a gay friendly country and they are actively working to suppress LGBT citizens. You don't want to get caught up in that. 

https://www.cnn.com/2025/11/11/china/china-gay-dating-apps-removed-intl-hnk

 

[Moses]

3 hours ago, KeepItReal said:

You don't want to get caught up in that. 

Have you ever been to China?
And trusting CNN is just fooling yourself.

I've been visiting China regularly since 2007. During the day, I'm busy with sightseeing, and in the evening, I'm at gay clubs and parties. WeChat is full of themed groups. I've never had a problem finding something to do.

Of course, in villages and small towns, homophobia exists on a casual level. I'd imagine it's about the same in Texas or Alabama. In big cities, no one cares who lives and sleeps with whom.

 

 

 

[KeepItReal]

47 minutes ago, Moses said:

Have you ever been to China?
And trusting CNN is just fooling yourself.

I've been visiting China regularly since 2007. During the day, I'm busy with sightseeing, and in the evening, I'm at gay clubs and parties. WeChat is full of themed groups. I've never had a problem finding something to do.

Of course, in villages and small towns, homophobia exists on a casual level. I'd imagine it's about the same in Texas or Alabama. In big cities, no one cares who lives and sleeps with whom.

 

 

 

Yes, I have been to Shanghai and Beijing. My experience was sub-par, I have little motivation to return. 

[Moses]

Beijing Queer film festival was 18th in this year. https://www.bjqff.com/

Most popular gay clubs/bars in Beijing are Destination, Kai Club, Dada, and Heaven Beer Bar

Shanghai pride still exists while in 2025 it was tiny event. Best evening places are Hunt, Asia Blue, and Moon Bar.

Hong Kong Lesbian and Gay film festival just ended few weeks ago https://www.hklgff.hk/

 

[PeterRS]

On 11/11/2025 at 7:05 PM, KeepItReal said:

Be careful when visiting China. It is not a gay friendly country and they are actively working to suppress LGBT citizens. You don't want to get caught up in that. 

https://www.cnn.com/2025/11/11/china/china-gay-dating-apps-removed-intl-hnk

 

Having visited China many dozens of times, I do not agree at all with @KeepItReal's comments. There are plenty of places for gay men to meet up and the apps can be humming, even for older western guys.

[KeepItReal]

23 hours ago, PeterRS said:

Having visited China many dozens of times, I do not agree at all with @KeepItReal's comments. There are plenty of places for gay men to meet up and the apps can be humming, even for older western guys.

Are you saying the CNN is wrong:  the apps mentioned in the article are still available and gay pride events have not been cancelled?  I am glad you had good experiences, but that does not mean it is universal. 

[PeterRS]

1 hour ago, KeepItReal said:

Are you saying the CNN is wrong:  the apps mentioned in the article are still available and gay pride events have not been cancelled?  I am glad you had good experiences, but that does not mean it is universal. 

I'm saying that CNN writes for essentially largely an American audience. Lots of non-gay non-Chinese websites are not accessible in China without a VPN. It seems you did not read the article properly. It states -

a source familiar with the matter told CNN that it appeared to be related to compliance issues

This is stated twice. And after the fuss has died down some apps will reappear as has been the case in the past. Blued, the huge international site founded by a former Beiing policeman, has a Chinese state company as one of its investors. Would China permit a state enterprise to invest in a company which it wanted permanently out of the way?

I have gay friends in various Chinese cities. They have no particular desire to march in or attend gay pride parades or even use apps to meet gay friends. That's the western way. They quickly develop their own circles of friends. If you are a one-time or just occasional visitor and you don't like the status quo, don't go. Simple as that. I am delighted to visit.

[KeepItReal]

4 hours ago, PeterRS said:

I'm saying that CNN writes for essentially largely an American audience. Lots of non-gay non-Chinese websites are not accessible in China without a VPN. It seems you did not read the article properly. It states -

a source familiar with the matter told CNN that it appeared to be related to compliance issues

This is stated twice. And after the fuss has died down some apps will reappear as has been the case in the past. Blued, the huge international site founded by a former Beiing policeman, has a Chinese state company as one of its investors. Would China permit a state enterprise to invest in a company which it wanted permanently out of the way?

I have gay friends in various Chinese cities. They have no particular desire to march in or attend gay pride parades or even use apps to meet gay friends. That's the western way. They quickly develop their own circles of friends. If you are a one-time or just occasional visitor and you don't like the status quo, don't go. Simple as that. I am delighted to visit.

Believe what you will, but if it was a simple "compliance issue" Grindr would have resolved it years ago to access the market in China.  I agree - will spend my vacation money where I and my friends are welcome. 

[aaadrian2]

You actually went to the real 兵马俑 Museum, and many Chinese people were tricked into going fake on their first visit, LOL😆

[ChristianPFC]

On 11/19/2025 at 11:54 AM, PeterRS said:

There are plenty of places for gay men to meet up and the apps can be humming, even for older western guys.

Can you elaborate, which cities, which apps?

I'm on my fourth trip to China now. My annual monthly Songkran and April hot weather escape from Thailand, here it's spring time!

Boy-wise, there is nothing her for me. I gave up looking. Where are all the gay boys?

[vinapu]

8 hours ago, ChristianPFC said:

Where are all the gay boys?

went to Thailand for Songkran ?