stijntje

Day 18 , back in Bangkok
 Alarm clock at 5.30, coffee and shower. At 6.20 our car arrived with one tourist already in and we set off for an airport. We missed breakfast at hotels  but small restaurant there was opened so we managed to east something decent. Then we killed bit of time by checking dinosaurs on display across the airport. In waiting room itself there were coffee , tear and water plus some simple snacks available free for waiting passengers. I must say Bangkok Airways does excellent job taking care about their passengers at that airport.
Few pics from the airport




 
Going back  I had feeling I could stay longer , specially if I brought some company to warm bed at night. Again we were treated with full breakfast on the flight.
 My friend K was supposed to stay  in the same hotel but his reservation was messed up and since they were full he was forced to search for free room in another one nearby. My room was not ready at that early hour so  I went to soi 6  for massage with N at Maha .
When I returned room was ready , so after refreshing I headed to Happy Beer Garden on Suriwong where I was supposed to lunch with ichigo. It was our first meet and we had nice chat and boy information sharing session over  the lunch.
Afternoon was very lazy , one of those days when  I feel it’s best to be busy doing nothing, bit of Grindr and forum , catching up with e-mails and some reading , in short lazybuming in full. At 20.30 I was supposed to dine with Anddy from the forum at Madrid Tavern so went there by BTS but they were closed already. Since he arrived on his motorbike it was easy to switch to G’Bangkok in soi 4 and have nice chat over dinner.
 From there to Hot Male where I treated P, the waiter with drink. K , my Sukhotai companion joined me there and we went to Moonlight. I hoped Y will be there and he was , we chatted over drink but it turned out he is already booked for tonight so I felt bit empty handed.
After 3 nights of fasting it would be nice to have somebody beside thought I and decided to see if P is still there in his bar hoping drink I bought him will bring some benefits. He was and it did, 600 off fee and soon we were in my room.
 

and here from central zone of Kamphaeng Phet includin "lion of Kampheang Phet" below


 





 
 
 

and here from Kamphaeng Phet "outside of the centre" zone

Day 17 Kamphaeng Phet
 I woke up at 8 , no rush since driver was supposed to show at 9. About quarter before that we met in front on my hotel wondering if he will show up at all ( remember we paid in full) only to discover that car parked aside is one which will be taking us there.
It’s about 80 Km so it took  slightly above 1 hour to get there. There are 2 complexes of ruins – to the north of the center which we visited first and compound in the very center where beside ruins there’s  neat museum we visited as well.   Admission here is 150  to each of two parts of  ruins and 150 to museum as well.
  Equally impressive ruins  as those at Sukhotai also not coverings as  vast territory and by every mean worth of travel there even from Bangkok , ,not just from Sukhotai. Kamphaeng Phet may be good breaking point between capital and Chiang Mai as it’s exactly mid way.
Early afternoon we were back in Sukhotai , as we were hungry we wnet to eat something right away and chicken with nuts was even better than one yesterday for only 2/3 of price.
Then we went to museum in Sukhotai, quite interesting but on human scale.
Then K went for massage and I went to survey temple near hotel not even shown on the map I  got in the hotel and from there on other side of road I spotted another , also unmarked ruin so went to explore it as well, it was start darkening when I went back to the room .
here are some pick of that 'forgotten ' temple:






 
 
At 20.00  we repeated yesterday’s routine with stroll to the center and banana pancake for supper. Returning to the hotel I thought that actually tomorrow I could start that sightseeing all over again. I have strong suspicion it was not my last trip to Sukhotai.
 
In the hotel I ordered van to the airport for our early morning flight for K and me at 350 per person.

Western Zone, lady on the last picture is not my friend K, 
just stranger she simply ignored fact that I'm trying to make picture standing there and checking Facebook or whatever so as penalty is is immortalized here  :

Iconic Wat Si Chum in Northern Zone with 15m tall Buddha







 

Temples of Northern Zone






 

Few more:

 

to be fair , I know that one of our members can't wait to land in Bangkok on the same day so as we said before, Songkran is one of those love-hate affairs.

don't be surprised  if somebody responds ' as far from all three as possible'  as Songkran seems to be one of those events people tend to have strong opinion about. Some of our member love it and some hate. I have no personal opinion as never  been in Thailand  at that time but as with all things where opinions differ I advise ' go and see for yourself" . Kostik seems to be right as Pattaya Songkran is observed after Bangkok, that's all I know.

I didn’t realize how much of a holiday it was until I wandered back from Sunee to Boystown. That explains the packed hotels but I have never seen more business at Serene. Outside there were dancers playing more for another bar. 

First stop was Nice Boys with maybe 8 customers - some openly entertaining boys. Invited a nice one for a couple drinks and pleasant company but was more missing a nice waiter from a couple years back.
Winner boys had a huge table outside with customers and a couple boys followed inside to dance. I should have tipped or bought a couple drinks as they grew bored but I was more interested in my favorite Blue Kamakazes. I inquired about Win but the bartender didn’t recognize the name?!! This has me concerned.

Day 15 , off to Sukhotai
No rush morning , we went for breakfast quite late, again  no problem with guest as my reservation was for two as always.
My flight to Sukhotai was at 15.30 from Swampy so no rush checking out , in fact I did it exactly at 12. 00 , by the  book. Since it was domestic flight I had plenty of time at the airport where K joined me in the waiting area..
Bangkok Airways is only airline flying there with 2 flights a day I either direction   , one in the morning and another one in the afternoon. Ticket was roughly 100$ return and flight was by turboprop , it took about 70 minutes to get there but Bangkok Airways being ‘Asia’s boutique airline” as they put in their commercials  treated us with full meal.
This is  what I saw from my window seat 

 
Sukhotai is cute small airport as one can imagine with just 2 landings and take offs a day but has all necessary amenities traveler may need including restaurant , gift shop, public toilets and for those bored waiting for their flight mini Zoo right beside and exhibition of live size dinosaurs in front of the airport complex.
 


 
There were taxis , public bus to New Sukhotai for 18 baht and well as door r to door van, option we opted for at 300 baht  per person.  Since its about 30 km to Old Sukhotai where ruins are it took about 1 hr to get there and it was getting dark already when we arrived. My hotel of choice was Thai Thai, highly recommended place of bungalows in the garden at 1200 a night. My friend decided on going bit to late  but his hotel turned out to be immediately across the street or rather small side alley  we were delivered to.
 







 
Nice touch on check in was that I got all information I possibly could look for in print. Where are stops for local busses and their prices, cost of renting bicycles or cars for sightseeing, price list for private tours  to nearby attractions of Kamphaeng Phet and Si Satchanalai-Chaliang historical parks. Location of the pool and local restaurants it was all there and also information about option how to get back to the airport. I even commented – you answered all my questions before I managed to ask them which was exactly what happened. To top it up I got also very handy map of local attractions
attached here ( keep in mind is not up to scale ).
 
After settling in , K and I went to the center for a dinner and ice cream from 7/11, walked along local night market , localized entry to central complex and returned to our room for well deserved rest before tomorrow’s expected  sightseeing  onslaught.
 

Home Spa has added two new “T & B” selections.

Day 12
 Today  we repeated yesterday’s morning routine, breakfast was quite pleasant affair as I noticed few other patrons including few young girls were following S when he was picking his food and drinks and I swear  I was object of their jealousy having landed such handsome guy in jeans showing quite a nice bulge.  Doubt anybody was thinking ‘ oh that’s is guy with his grandson” . I did not mind S sending some smiles toward those girls fully knowing who winner is, let them have it.
Today’s destination is Sambor Prey Kuk, temple complex predating Angkor with most temples made not of stone but of bricks  from 7th century on,  located near Khompong Thom , half way to Phnom Penh. It took us 3 hours to get there.
 Entry is 10$ , they suggested hiring guide for the same amount and I agreed . She even dragged with her another girl- guide in training. Having guide there is good idea as objects are dispersed in the forest , trails  are well marked but still  on you own one may miss this or that.
 







 
 
It took us about 3 hours to visit every corner, I tipped that trainee 5$ then we went to local restaurant for a meal , 16.50 $ for three, not  a bad deal .
 Again long trip home , fortunately today Saturday  traffic was quite light and it was driver suggestion we go there on Saturday as he was afraid Sunday traffic will be heavier.
At home S suggested artistic part – dinner with Apsara traditional dance show on Pub Street so we went there. I like when my travel companions have own ideas not only asking “what we are doing now ? ”. At the table beside us young farang couple was sitting and I noticed both of them were paying an attention to S presence . Bit later when we had chance meeting on the street they even said  " Hi " to him ignoring me entirely. You can't imagine how my fragile ego was hurt at that moment
I meantime S got message from his bar friend , Siem Reap native,  who came  to see his folks at home and when he show me his picture it turned out I also know him from 2 long time offs, one threesome included. So we went to see him , he was dining with another boy and somebody suggested ‘lets go check Barcode “.
I offered to finance that escapade but at the door we were sent away- today bar closed for some private function. Other two boys said they are going to bed and that was idea S and I borrowed from them so we parted ways every couple marching to different bed. I had another senior moment – why I did not suggest  “ lets go all to our room”. Knowing that friend there was chance idea would be approved. Oh well. S and me still managed to had some fun including feasting on some pistachios and fruit while sitting naked on balcony right above hotel’s pool closed at that hour.

Day 11
 We raised to the sound of alarm clock at 6.45, prepared goods for today’s sightseeing and made sure to be first when they started serving breakfast in hotel at 7.30 because as suspected, my driver pulled in at 8 am on the dot.
Plan for today was ambitious with 7 temples and first we set off was the farthest from the list- Banteai Srei. Not only because I consider smart thing to start sightseeing from  most distant place just in case something happens and even more important, Banteai Srei  is only temple where you can buy Angkor ticket apart from official ticket selling office on outskirts of Siem Reap.
 There are 3 kinds of tickets available – 1 day for 37 $, 3 days within 10 days for 62$ and 7 days within 30 days for 72 $. Payment in dollars only , that was only place where they are  not accepting  riels. I opted for 3 days ticket because after tomorrow I’m planning Bang Melea temple and recent change was to remove separate ticket there and include it in Angkor ticket. Good news for some and not so good as we learn for others.
Another bonus of Banteai Srei ticket office was that there we no lineups.
 That temple is one of smallest Angkor temples but definitely most richly decorated and also one of most popular so it pays to be there early which we could appreciate when leaving and hordes in vans and tour buses start arriving.



 
 
Next one is along with Ta Som my favorite -Banteai Samre. It’s quite a distance from main complex and  one of least crowded. When I was there in 2001  there was no infrastructure there at all but now there are restaurants , toilets, souvenir stands and even guys playing Khmer music for donation. Often overlooked there is former ceremonial alley leading to the temple – on your left when you approach temple complex .


 
Third one was of course Ta Som, at end of complex there gate enveloped by the tree , one of those iconic Angkor places. Again , in 2001 that tree was not trimmed yet, whet we see now is later job.
If you are there make sure to go to the very end and then turn back to appreciate the sight. I stress it because I saw people missing it ‘ lets return , it’s only that small gate there” .
 
 Then Easten Mebon as I missed her in 2022 and lunch in some restaurant picked by driver which was not a good idea to leave that to him. He led us to typical crowded and overpriced tourist locale geared toward bus tours. Not that is busted my wallet but there are plenty of places I’d chose instead.
 
After lunch we did three biggies ; Ta Prohm famous for giant trees eating into ruins but also I suspect holding them together.


Then Bayon with hundreds of stone faces with mysterious smile


 
and to crown of today’s selection Angkor Wat itself , biggest and most magnificent of them all.


 
S, my guy as I expected was ideal tour companion, interested in sightseeing with none of those ‘ are we done already ? ” . Quite opposite after climbing highest level of Angkor and subsequent wandering through all level below I was ready to skip first floor galleries only to hear ‘ what ?, lets go”. It was really uplifting to see guy so interested in his country heritage.
 
After such busy and intensive day we returned to the room quite tired. After it got dark we picked up ourselves to go for dinner and then,  I swear it was not me, S suggested we go to 168 massage for massage. So we did .
 
 My boy was quite good and good looking too. Later and in the room I senses bit of jealousy ,S asking what we did to each other with the boy and visibly not believing my answers. Massage was 10$ for 1 hr, I tipped my guy 20$, S tipped his only 6$ but he was adamant it was nothing that just massage even if I did not really care having good idea how those stores are operating.
 
Then he had another idea – to check Barcode bar so we went there but it was bit too early with only few patrons and working boys. We had drink and returned home . No need for me to stay and watch he show when I have in my room guy  better looking that their selection, not to mention of tested quality.
 

Day 10 continued - in Siem Reap
At 12 noon I left hotel , took 9$ tuk-tuk to the airport   and while flying high above Cambodia I realized that I got  infamous senior moment in the hotel. When emptying safe box I put pile of 100 000  riels ( 25$ ) in 5000 notes on the night stand and forgot to pick it up from there. Can only imagine  how happy cleaner  was finding it and hope she was not stupid enough to report it to the reception but harvested that pile in full.
As my mom used to say ‘ in nature nothing gets lost , only finds new owner”.
 In ½ hr we were landing already. Airport looks very pleasant  but was empty, our plane was only one at time I was there. My driver greeted me immediately but I told him I need to do my survey. In improvement to early reports now there’s place one can buy snacks, there are desks for taxi and public bus to the city as well as  kiosk with SIM cards. Unfortunately I couldn’t  see departure area as there are guards who are admitting actually people who are departing only.
 This tells us whole thing is Chinese  built , run and milked. There are no such restriction in Phnom Penh.
Quite possible in generation people will be marveling of how far sighted builders if this airport were but for now it’s just waste od space and money as old airport was running well and was very close to the city. I’m not buying BS that it needed to be closed because vibrations were hurting ancient temples. In my 5 visits there I never heard any plane landing or taking off. Anyways if we don’t have what we liked we must like what we have.
 It's about 1 hr. to the city and one can take car  for 35$ or van for 40$ or public bus for 8$.
Apparently there’s  also postal bus for the same 8$ but I did not find any information not stop for it there so it needs to be confirmed.
 






 
 
Half way is very modern highway which is joining old National Road number 6. One hour and 35$ later I was in hotel. Big room with balcony , separate shower / bathtub area and toilet itself. Breakfast included and even small pool at disposal, all for 40$ , life is beautiful. Knowing S is coming I was waiting for him , he updated me where he is and finally knock into door and happy squeak from him. It look he was really happy for such vacations.


 
Today we took it easy , went to Old Market area to eat something  and returned to the room as two happy people have no better place to spend rest of day and night like bed , specially knowing driver will be 8 am on the dot. I know him and was sure so instructed S to behave but forgot to instruct myself so we had some steam in the room before we fell asleep..
 
 
 

Day 10, still in Phnom Penh
 In the morning we turned fully synchronized , he wanted to go to the gym and me to Royal Palace right after they open at 8. Our good bye embrace was  quite long and then for  first time in my zillion meetings with boys in Thailand and Cambodia   I heard apology from guy that he charged me too much.
 I was quite touched  , I knew I gave him bit more than market but bit doesn’t meant twice or trice more. He told me what he needs money for and for me it sounded quite pleasurable so all I could say was ‘ my pleasure’ and there was not an inch of exaggeration in my statement. That was sweet indeed.
I could walk to Royal Palace but being strong believer of supporting local industry  I hailed tuk-tuk . Of course local industry thought I may be stupid tourist and quoted me something like 16000 for what it‘s walking distance so I offered 1$ (4000) and kept walking and of course local industry agreed ‘ ok, ok , 1 dollar” , three minutes later we were there and I spoiled local industry with 2000 tip.
 I was one of first visitors and almost felt I have place to myself  for first few minutes. Here are some pictures





 
In hour and half I completed my tour  and went to Warsaw for a breakfast hoping they will have rye bread and Polish sausage which is exactly what I was served plus some other cold cuts and cheeses. Again it was too opulent but after 10 days of feasting on hotel and Foodland treats of fried eggs and toasts I cleaned my plate.
  As cold cuts tasted surprisingly un - industrial I asked and my suspicions were confirmed. They have local source , another Polish guy who produces  sausages, hams and other treats. Chesses were from the stores though . Who would think ?, Polish ham made in Cambodia ! All that plate for 5$ ( 20000), tea included.
 Then to hotel to pack whatever little I had. On Whatsapp I contacted driver who help me  with his car in October of 2022 if he can t pick me up from the airport. I was surprised answer was immediate and on top of that he remembered  very well me and even hotel I was staying because he asked if I still will stay there. No,  this time instead of Royal Crown and Men’s  I opted for Kings’ Rock on the same side of river, around the corner from Royal Crown and walking distance to Old Market.
I guess not many tourist are hiring drivers to go to Banteai Chhmar temple so it’s how I become so memorable. He even recalled when we asked local lady how far temple is she told us about 20 minutes by motorbike while in fact it was 1 hr by car. So much about local knowledge !
 I  told him not to rush as it will be my first time in new airport and I want to walk around before  we set off for the city.

Day 9
 After my guy departed I was left with my dreams so to speak and sleep soundly till quite late. Late breakfast for 16000  in Dolce Vita, quite sumptuous and then I went to Royal Palace  as last two times I was in Phnom Penh it was still closed due to covid scare. Now is reopened for for some reason was closed today and I was directed  to come tomorrow .
So decided to treat myself with tour of island at confluence of Mekong and Tonle Sap rivers , tuk-tuk for 15$. It’s mostly new developments , in 2001 it was mostly wasteland but still at the southern top fishing village on boats survived. With new bridge  access to an island is easy but old ferries are also circulating quite frequently.
Tonle Sap river from new bridge
 
Central Phnom Penh from other side

Fishing village on the boats 

mighty Mekong in Phnom Penh

 
Returned to hotel around 13.00 hoping my last night companion will keep his word and indeed first Line came’ I’m coming soon’ and then at 1pm on the dot  he showed up greeted in the lobby by welcoming committee i.e. me. Another fabulous , no rush session and it was darkening when he left.
 I feel hungry so decided to try that Polish place I discovered last night. I chose quite typical fare of chicken soup and schnitzel with potatoes, only beer reminded me I’m dining in Cambodia , not in Europe. Very tasty but in my opinion servings were too generous for the climate. I was hungry and still did not manage to eat it all. 11$ plus tip.
My treats (glasses not included) :


 
 In meantime I received another cheering message , this time from S (day 3 ) that he is planning to join me in Siem Reap tomorrow evening.
 After exhausting exercises of last night and this  afternoon I felt bit in need of nap so went to hotel
for 2 hours sleep rightly expecting that tonight it will be another session.
 In the evening to my headquarters in Phnom Penh i.e. Space Hair. For another evening of fun there.
 My last night guy did not waste much time to inquire if he should see me come after work which I guess both of us expected to happen. I must say I got quite drunk tonight , switching to gin and tonic did  better  job  that those lady -like Margaritas and Cuba Libres.
Of course not that drunk to forget where I live or that I will have guest tonight, all was under control.
 Soon after me my guy showed up and I had impression he was even more clingy and passionate then last night and in the afternoon.
 

Trip Report – Koh Chang – 15 Jan 2024 – 18 Jan 2024
 
I am behind on my trip reports.  I present this one from Koh Chang (which was easier to prepare) and then I will have a bigger one from Christmas/New Years - 17 day trip report for Songkhla.  Sorry for the delays.
 
Up to now, my favorite island in proximity of Pattaya has been Koh Samet.
Hanging out with my volleyball friends at the Dongtan beach (Sea Rescue area), we were chatting about a new island place to go to and we decided to make a 4 day / 3 night visit to Koh Chang.

Aerial shot of the Trat island archipelago
One of them has a car, so that made the transportation modality easy. Note that a quick search in Google - notes that there are many busses that also go there – primarily from Bangkok but I believe that I saw one from Pattaya as well.
    -> Please note that their facial photos are included in this trip report with their permission given as well as their contact details in case any of you would like to use their services. <-
We departed Jomtien around 9:45am and we arrived at the Ao Thammachat pier in Trat at around 14:30pm, almost 5 hours – leisurely driving with breaks for the bathroom, iced coffee, and gas.
We were able to get onto the 15:30pm car ferry at a cost of 120 baht for the car and then 80 baht for the each of us for a total of 360 baht. The ferry crossing is about 30 minutes.  Ferry info can be found here at:  Koh Chang Ferries price list 2023 / 2024 


Map of Koh Chang and surrounding islands.  As you can see there are many ferry options to arrive onto the island from the mainland.

Above places highlighted with a red circle are the places that we visited
We booked our 3 night stay at the Klong Prao Resort    Klong Prao Beach Resort webpage 
We booked 2 rooms and paid 1,840 baht per night for a total of 11,040 baht for 3 nights.

This resort is lovely and very big with a beautiful sandy beach and lush tropical plants everywhere.  As we booked kind of at the last minute we were assigned to 2 older rooms.  There are 3 distinct zones around a large pond, where the zone we stayed in is the oldest and the other 2 zones are more modern.  My only complaint about our rooms were there were hardly any electrical outlets for all of our devices (electric razor, tooth brush, boom box, mobile phones, etc.).  Other than this inconvenience the rooms were perfect – air con worked very well, shower had hot water, and unlike my stay in Koh Samet and also in Songkhla (I still need to write this trip report) there were NO noisy geckos

to wake us up in the early morning with their annoying chirping sounds.  However, they are very handy for eating any annoying mosquitos, bugs and spiders.
Note that the 2 newer zones have many electrical outlets as they were probably built after the advent of the popularity of mobile phones and all of our electrical gadgets.
The highlights of this resort for us were:
The pool and their pool bar with early evening 2 for 1 sunset happy hours – as evidenced in the below photos, The white sandy beaches and blue turquoise water.  Note that the Koh Chang municipality has strict rules that keep the noisy speed boats and jet skis away – thus rendering the beaches to be more in their wonderful natural state.
Day 1 (15 Jan 2024) itinerary
Arrive onto the island, check in unpack, enjoy the resort grounds, pool, beach, happy hour, fantastic sunset and eat at the resort dining facility = RimHad Restaurant.  Watched a great fire show performed by some hunky macho guys (similar to the familiar B-Boys, who perform all over Pattaya, Boyztown, Jomtien) on the beach in front of our resort restaurant.  Like when I visited Koh Samet, these fire show guys can be found traveling up and down the beach performing in front of the many resorts and beach restaurants.  It lasted about 10 minutes and was very entertaining.

I realized that I did not take any still photos so the above photo is from a movie clip that I made.
 
Then before going to sleep I received my customary massage – as both of these volleyball friends are also masseurs.
Day 2 (16 Jan 2024) itinerary
After the great resort buffet breakfast (an enormous selection of Western and Thai foods were available) we headed off to the Khlong Phlu Waterfall in the National Park.  It was nearby, and perhaps after 30 minutes by car we were already at the trailhead for our hike.  The hike took about 30 minutes and was rather easy. 
Explore Koh Chang - description of Koh Chang waterfalls  

As it was not rainy season, the waterfall was a little bit subdued, but it was still cool and refreshing to take a dip and to swim with the millions of fish that were in the water.  You need to resist their lite nibbles at your skin – kind of like those tourist places that you see all over Thailand where the tourists put their feet into a fish tank to get their dead skin nibbled off.

There were about 20 to 25 people there when we visited with about half of them brave enough to enter the chilly refreshing water.  There is a lifeguard off to the left up on the rocks to prevent that tourists climb up onto the waterfall, as it can be quite dangerous as it is very slippery.

And there I am trying to acclimate myself to the lite nibbles by the fish before I dove in and swam
over to where the water was cascading down – as that end is very deep.
 
Entrance fee to the waterfall (which is part of the national park system) was 40 baht for each of my 2 Thai friends and 200 baht for me for a total cost of 280 baht.
Afterwards, back to our resort to relax, swim in the pool, take advantage of the 2-for-1 drink specials at the pool bar, and to watch the sunset.
For that night’s dinner we drove over to the popular White Sands Beach area – full of restaurants, hotels, resorts, markets, etc. to eat at the Beach Tango restaurant 
     Beach Tango restaurant Facebook page  
which became our favorite go-to place to eat.
Why?
The food and drinks were good.  There was interesting eye candy – one of the wait staff had our constant attention.  Plus, there were many interesting people walking up and down the beach – as there are many, many, bars and restaurants in this area.  Beach Tango is smack in the middle of all of the fun and is an entertaining place to be situated.

Then after dinner back to the room to relax for my nightly massage.  Life is good.
 
Day 3 (17 Jan 2024) itinerary
Enjoy the buffet breakfast and then head down to the extreme southern part of Koh Chang (on the opposite side of the island) to visit the very famous Koh Ngam beach.  It was a very long drive as we needed to cross the island to the other side (mainland facing), and this part of the island is not built up like the other side, so consequently, the main road became narrower and narrower up into the mountains to the point where there was only room for 1 car to pass one way with very steep curvy roads.  Scary, but well worth the reward to arrive at the tiny boat station to take the 10 minute boat to cross over to the breath taking Koh Ngam.

You can choose your mode of transportation – by kayak or by motorboat.  We chose by motorboat as we were too excited to already be on Koh Ngam.  I believe that we paid 80 baht for each Thai person, and I as a farang had to pay 200 baht, which included the boat ride over to the island.  Fee is paid to a ranger on Koh Ngam – as it is now part of the Thailand National Park system.

Here is a good short video with some drone footage of Koh Ngam:  Youtube video with drone footage of Koh Ngam 
And here is what awaits you on Koh Ngam – truly amazing.

After enjoying Koh Ngam (swimming, relaxing, and enjoying the view and the nature) – back on the boat to Koh Chang and then back in the car for the 1 hour trip back to our resort for those 2-for-1 pool bar cocktails and amazing sunsets.

Rinse and repeat the previous night at Beach Tango for dinner and drinks and then back to the resort for my nightly good-night massage.
Day 4 (18 Jan 2024) itinerary
Enjoy the last breakfast buffet and check-out of the resort for the long 5 hour drive back to Pattaya (Jomtien).
Phong says to me – do you want to see one more exciting place before we head back?  I say, sure, why not.  So, we drive over to the Kai Bae Viewpoint, which is famous for its spectacular view of 4 of the Koh Chang archipelago islands, Koh Yuak, Koh Man Noi, Koh Pli and Koh Man Nok.
https://www.google.com/maps/place/Kai+Bae+Viewpoint/@12.0205768,102.2919516,15z/data=!4m6!3m5!1s0x3104105179b452c7:0x2b4a04572dce185b!8m2!3d12.0205768!4d102.2919516!16s%2Fg%2F11b6tz721w?hl=en&entry=ttu
Note that there is excellent coffee available at this Kai Bae viewpoint.

Before almost reaching Pattaya, my 2 tour guides noticed that we were all sad that our 4 day trip was coming to a quick end, so they said do you want to eat at a fun place that is near Pattaya (about 1 hour away) before we call it a day?  I said sure – as I really like to see and experience new places.
So, we stopped off at the Tamnanpar Resort & Restaurant – one of these many nearby Pattaya / Rayong restaurants that are tucked away in a jungle theme – various Thai friends have taken me to different ones as each Thai person swears that his/her’s is the best.
Tamnanpar resort and restaurant Facebook page 


This place is famous for their unique game cuisine where you can eat ostrich, crocodile, snake, and deer. All was good and our random waiter was someone that my 2 tour guides already knew and were teasing him about his in-the-bed attributes – he was quite shy but willing to tease back my 2 Thai friends.  I truly enjoy when the Thais do this to each other as it is very entertaining.
Then they dropped me off at my condo room in Jomtien and our trip concluded.
 
 
Trip summary:
Would I go back to Koh Chang?  Most certainly – it is a large island and there is still more to see. Especially to visit many of the many off-shore islands in the archipelago. Maybe stay for one more additional day to take some time to do kayaking.
Any regrets?  Yes, we did not have time to see the famous abandoned boat “ghost” hotel.   Nation Thailand article on the famous "ghost" ship on Koh Chang
 
Contact details (HORNET and Line) for my 2 Thai tour guides from the Dongtan volleyball field in Jomtien.  They can be available to be a tour guide, companion, or masseur. 
 permission was granted to me by the both of them to publish their details for all of you Also, come and visit them at volleyball (nightly from about 5:30 pm until 8pm to 9pm daily) – right next to the Sea Rescue in front of the Pattaya Park Tower on the beach road of our Dongtan beach. 
Phong Hornet ID is:  @m-thailand
Boat Hornet ID is:  @13hq91


 

Day 8
My room was booked without breakfast  so in the morning  I purchased breakfast coupon  for $8, princely sum in Cambodia  and went to sister venue OK Boutique around the corner where breakfasts are served on top floor with beautiful view over central Phnom Penh.
 Yesterday I purchased tour to Killing Fields. Very sobering place where mass executions were conducted by Khmer Rouge. I was there on my first Cambodia trip in 2001 and wanted to see what changed during those years.
They were supposed to pick me up at 10.00 , I was waiting on steps of my hotel and when I got impatient 45 minutes later guide finally appeared to pick me up. We went to few other hotels to pick up other tourists as well as picked up few at another sobering place – infamous S-21 Tuol Sleng prison.     
Killing Fields  are on the outskirts of Phnom Penh and while 23 years ago road leading there was atrocious , now is paved all the way. Another thing I noticed is absence beggars without limbs , victims on landmines. Them they were I ubiquitous all over Cambodian  cities , now is rarity to see one. I wonder what happened as a lot of them then were quite young. One hopes they were taken care  of somehow.
On the road  they played movie about Pol Pot life , rise and fall, very objective and hiding nothing. Including my Cambodian  pet peeve- fact that after Vietnamese removed  Khmer Rouge, their  atrocities were will known and 2 million skulls strewn in the countryside  and still Thailand and West supported their regime of so called Democratic Kampuchea on international stage including UN seat. If we think that politics are dirty there’s no place better to contemplate it than Cambodia.
Centre point of the place is temple -like  monument with skulls on shelves, new thing there is another monument picture of which I show below.



 
Sadly,  that place along with Tuol Sleng are a must visit at least once to understand better what happened in Cambodia but also to appreciate how far country moved from that horror although past is still present and oddly house of Ta Mok, one of Pol Pot’s bloody henchmen in Anlong Veng close to Thai border is still place which I was told some locals still visit with reverence.
 I remember talking to some journalist well versed with SE Asia affairs in mid-80ties and he told me that thanks  to Khmer Rouge and their  killing spree Cambodia is only country in the region without problem of grandchildren still toiling in half slavery  to pay debts their  grandparents  took to pay for their wedding.  That would explain Ta Mok nostalgy I’d say.
 It was nice to return to vibrant city , after a bit of rest and my obligatory mid-day tea I decided to try massage at Arthur and Paul gay hotel. Inspiration came from one of our tour participants being picked up and dropped there. It looked as classy place so I said to myself “about time to see and try”.
 For 8000 riels (2 $) tuk -tuk took me there. I was hoping guy I spotted on Grindr, hunky hunk working there will be present but unfortunately no. 1.5 hr massage fee was 28$ , certainly well above Cambodian standard. There were 4 guys available, none of them   close to my type but all smiling so I picked up one whose  smile was widest.
 Room quite spiffy but container with soap in the shower was empty , not for that price thought I. After morning experience certainly I was not in the mood to complain or get sour about anything. Massage was skilled but when temperature raised and was time for masseur to remove his excessive clothing i.e. undies and towel he quoted me tip of 40$ , again quite a sum for Cambodia but if one gets massages in classy places must be prepared to pay thought I and agreed.
 At least I’m glad I tried the place. Next time I will be trying to secure that hunk I guess. Right beside Artur and Paul is Rambutan, popular in gay circles  with rooms about  half price of those at A $ &P but still twice as much I’m paying at my OK Palace . I did not need an accommodation but after  running whole day on breakfast and bottle of Hanuman Black beer I gulped on my way from Killing Fields not at 6 ot 7 pm I was hungry so  decided to eat there.
Another tourist place with prices to match ,  15$ I paid for dinner  I summarized in my diary as ‘; money not spent well” .
Upon return I  alighted on Pasteur street and then walked to soi where my friend told me Toolbox bar was resurrected    and asked me if that is true. Indeed I found it, from info I got it’s just across the soi whom old location but inside was nobody and outside was sitting lone twink , not exactly of my type but for those venturing there I confirm , Toolbox was resurrected.
 It was short walk to my hotel from there and when passing Saravoan Royal Palace hotel on street 178 I thought I have stroke . Warsaw ? Polish place that far ? Indeed it was newly opened restaurant  so for those craving Central and Eastern European food there place for you and very easy to find – right beside old location of Blue Chili bar and 200 meters from National Museum. Price list looked quite human so I took note where I will have my dinner tomorrow. Too bad I overspent at Rambutan when I could have likely better food ( I love schnitzels an European soups) for ½ price and steps from my hotel.

 
In the  room I freshened up , took shower to remove oil  after that massage , packed my pockets with money – you know my system perhaps ,50 $  this pocket, two 20$ in another few 10 , 5 and 1 in third one, some 20000 riels here and some 10000 there . This way I don’t need to show wad of money when tipping or paying bill. This all in preparation for another fun evening at Spice Hair bar.
 Walked there and when arrived, I guess it was 21.00 or 21.30  there were no customers but 7 guys on duty already. How do I know? Because seeing them unemployed I took pity and ordered 8 drinks. You should hear  an applause , probably heard as far as    Sum and Moon hotel which is next door to the bar.
 Fun started , luck had it that two guys I liked the most positioned themselves beside me and soon after bar started filling up with patrons and few more boys. Guys made sure I’m entertained, I stole kiss or 4 from guy on my left, made discretely  sure that guy on my right is not a girl by strategic hand placement   and it was well understood by asking question where’s my hotel. Hour or two later he expressed curiosity to check if I have balcony and view from it which led to suggestion  he is willing to  check it after bar closes on his way home.
I explained to him that in case he will feel tired there’s sofa in the room which led to an instruction where I’m supposed to wait for him. Around 1 at night I left , waited where instructed which took a while because as I said earlier, guys there must stay on duty as long as bar is opened . Knowing procedure it was sweet waiting. Soon after were at hotel. No fuss over bringing guest that late, no questions asked. In the room he notices sofa is not comfortable enough but bed is big and shyly ( ok, not) suggested we share it which we did in gusto.
 Fabulous 2 or 3 hours, when he left it was still dark, earlier in the bar he  offered some plausible explanation why he can’t stay till morning  so I was Ok with that , if only because he offered time compensation “ if you want I can come at 1 tomorrow “  which felt like Christmas day for me.
 

go and not only because Space hair boys Angkor ruins are absolutely awe inspiring

this is continuation of trip report from Thailand section at this link:
https://www.gayguides.com/forums/topic/41442-better-to-be-retired-than-retarded-thailand-and-cambodia-in-january-2024-trip-report-brief-but-long/#comment-374666
 
Day 7 , Phnom Penh part.
I had e-visa so immigration was breeze. I exchanged some money into riels as airport rates are only minimally lower than city ones ( 4000 vs 4065 for 1 USD).
 Some people don’t bother and are using dollars since Cambodia is practically dual currency country and is not  unusual to pay 10 $ invoice   with 6$ and 16000 riels ( 4 $) for example. Some places are quoting prices in riels  , other in dollars but both currencies are accepted everywhere and only exceptions I know is visa on arrival and tickets to Angkor ruins where one must pay in USD exclusively.
 If you decide to bring dollars just make sure notes are  intact without any tears , pinholes and writings on them, I saw 1 dollar banknotes rejected because of those infractions.
I prefer to use riels  with exception of big ticket items like boys’  tips as getting change from 50 or 100 $ bill may be problematic in country where dinner cost 5 $ and haircut 2$.
 Other airport purchase was SIM card for 1 week , it was 7$ if I recall correctly and then tuk-tuk to hotel for 9$. Those who want to save money on getting to hotel solution is to take bus from airport parking lot for 1000 or 2000 or leave airport area and get one of the waiting tuk-tuks outside for something like 5-7$ but I did not bother.
 Room was not ready so I went to Dolce Vita for lunch and returned in 1 hr to find everything ready. I stay in OK Palace hotel, twin of OK Boutique in the same soi where I stay last time. Entry to the hotel is palatial and so is   room. Both hotels are in street 19Z, appendix like short soi across from National Museum and walking distance to Royal Palace and whole central area including my Phnom Penh headquarters Space Hair bar.
hotel's entry


view from the window

sleeping machine and the room


 
 In the room I noticed I forgot phone charger in  Bangkok and girl on reception suggested I go to Kandal Market where there are phone shops. Bingo indeed. Instead of walking  10 minutes I took tuk tuk for whopping 4000 and returned in style by cycle rikshaw for the same amount.
 After setting in I walked around admiring smells and sounds , bought tour to Killing Fields  for tomorrow and at around 21.00 I walked to 136 street to my headquarters – Space Hair bar.
 I wish we had something like that in Bangkok although they operate on different formula . Staff are exclusively hunky and in shape – see sample from their recent Facebook.

Almost all guys from the picture were present  on at least one    of three nights I visited there. As always almost means one was absent and that one was precisely one I wanted to see as we met already quite closely  before. But if I don’t have what I like , I like what I have.
Boys there are only to accompany you for drinks and talk. Forget about offs and off fees. Surely if you have designs on one or more you must be very , very discreet and be prepared  for meeting absolutely outside working hours. Boss there , while very sympathetic is also very strict and serious about those rules. Cambodian Prince I had debacle with last year was fired on the spot  for leaving 1 hr. earlier than scheduled and apparently only because he got drunk
 Drinks are not expensive 4-6 $ but if you get heated like me , they add up but this is cost of fun. Some guys are somewhat touchy-feely , others less so, kiss or 7 can be stolen after few rounds of drinks , hand and knee holding is available and generally is a lot of fun. Guys are not pushing you for drinks  and absolutely no word of ‘ tip’ is spoken but obviously depending on time they sat with you  and how long you were holding their knee or hand you should tip them. I gave 5- 10 $ to those few who sat with me for prolonged time. Drinks are what oils bar keep in mind so when boy empties his buy him another one or he may choose to, leave your table.
But there are absolutely no situations like I had sometimes in Thai bars when boy gulped his drink in on ego and was looking for another one. It’s why I wish we have such bar in Bangkok. Easy , pleasant and no hard sell tactics.
Not only boys got plenty of drinks but also myself so when I was leaving at about 2 am I was quite drunk and 90$ lighter , not to mention about 100 000  distributed for tips. But it was fun worth of every minute and every penny spent. Unfortunately I went home empty handed so to speak. I had designs on one of their boys but neither one of us was brave enough to start serious discussion.
 Before I went to bed for fun I checked Grindr and had “ Hi “ from quite attractive looking guy but had that senior moment and did not realize that this guy ( I’m notoriously bad reading people from pictures ) was indeed one I had designs on in bar. It only dawned on my next day in the afternoon. But by then damage was done. Not only I spent night in cold bed but also he figured out that I rejected him and was doing his best to show that he cooled to me. Oh well, lesson learned

Day 7 , Bangkok part
 A wanted to go home at 7. Normally I’d be bit upset considering his compensation but today it worked for me as I’m on the move. We went for breakfast to new Foodland in Park Silom, not as crowded as on another day but still very well patronized for that early hour.
Total bill 500 , out of it 83 was my discounted American breakfast. Those muscly semi gods are not company for penny pinching seniors. Then we parted our ways , I returned to hotel and packed since today I’m starting Cambodian part of my trip.  Most of goodies I simply tucked in suitcase and left in the hotel where I’m returning in about 11 days. What I thought I need for Cambodia I packed into travel bag and took with me. Travelling lightly at cost of making daily laundry is how I like  to move around..
 My flight to Phnom Penh was from Swampy so BTS  to Phaya Thai and ARL to Swampy from there.
Lines to immigration and security attested than tourism rebounded big time.
 Flight with Lanmei Airlines was short and uneventful and 1 hour later I landed in Phnom Penh.
 This trip report will be continued in Cambodia section for benefit of those readers who are interested more in that country than Thailand. Then we return  here to continue Thai part , particularly trip to Sukhotai and Kamphaeng Phet.
 this report is continued in Cambodia section at this link :
https://www.gayguides.com/forums/topic/41671-phnom-penh-angkor-koh-ker-and-sambor-prey-kuk-trip-to-cambodia-in-jan-2024/
 

Day 6
 Solitary breakfast at Foodland Patpong generated comment from  one of servers ‘ alone today? “ .
I was about to answer  ‘ none of you f….ng business “ but fortunately Guardian Angel restrained me  and I  said nothing.
Certainly we are much less anonymous on the scene than we wish  for and then we think we are. Not sure it’s good or bad but it’s good to be aware about the fact.
 After breakfast  I joined my friend  for some sightseeing of Sukhumvit area. We visited new mall Em Something at soi 22. I was not impressed but my friend was. I don’t fly that far to wander through the malls , no matter how shiny. But at least I kept him from s Silom area and possible chance meeting of boy loudly asking “ Can I  sleep with you tonight?”.
 Mindful that I expect guest in the afternoon I was thinking how to part our ways but fate was on my side, friend ate something unfriendly  for breakfast and decided  to retire to his room to cure both diarrhea and jet lag and I went to hotel  on my way stopped at KFC of all places because N , my guest  loves  their stuff so I bought big bucket and as soon as I got it message on Line arrived with N asking to buy some KFC stuff for him as he is on his way. Perfect timing.
N works nights so arrangements we have is whenever  he feels like seeing me during day
( translation : can use some money ) he tells me day ahead he can come and if I’m free I tell him yes, see you tomorrow . If I have another plans I tell him no, next time . No fuss,  clean and clear arrangement. He is great guy who reads me very well and has only one fault – doesn’t kiss. He is not only one who don’t although his lips are particularly kissable and is shame they are so wasted
 So we had few hours of fun and all started shockingly, yes as soon as we closed door and embraced he planted sophisticated and long lasting  kiss on me. I almost fainted or may be I did , just don’t remember ? After I got my breath again he told me ‘this is my new year gift to you “ . How not to like such considerate guy ?
 So we had  quite a nice and long, no rush session this  afternoon . No we did not spent all that time eating from that bucket but certainly we tasted a bit. Rest I suggested he can take and treat his friends at work which it turned out was exactly he wanted to ask me. No doubt we understand each other very well. Since his English is good we can always break sinful activities with some sophisticated conversation.
At 19.00 he declared it’s time to say good bye as he doesn’t want to be late at work . asked about my trip plans and promised to see me again before I go home “ but no kiss , I kiss you again next trip “ .
I’m clinging to that promise expectantly as it was truly nice surprise.
 I have somebody else coming tonight so just to make sure I went to Thainya to exchange some money. Normally I do it at XOne but today was Sunday and they are closed . Jewelry shop at end of Thainya on the left coming from Sala Daeng is open daily till late and they have pretty good rates so if readers are in need of money exchange late or on Sunday that is the place to go.. I noticed that on Sundays those booths in the area which are opened have rates quite uncompetitive – market economy in situation when most are closed.
When I returned to hotel I met K , my Taiwan friend  who arrived yesterday and is staying in the same hotel . We exchanged news and upon learning I’m going to Sukhotai after returning from Cambodia he expressed intention of going there as well so I furnished him with info about flight I’m taking and hotel I’m staying there.
 At 22.00 I was supposed to meet A, muscle semi god who seems to have left scene recently. I did not see him in his bar , when asked mamasan  there answer was very vague ‘ we don’t know if he returns and when ’. Nevertheless  Line contact worked and he was free tonight. He changed his hairstyle and was actually him who first spotted me approaching although there’s no chance in hell  I would miss such hunk sitting  / standing  / walking anywhere.
 We went to restaurant to eat something, bill was quite high but blame is on me as I was one to pick up that place. I tried to find out what is his reason for such departure from the scene  but my joking question ‘ do you have boyfriend or girlfriend now ? ‘ was met with but reluctant answer “ I know many people ‘ so I left my curiosity unsatisfied. He looked good and happy so I guess he has it good and I’m happy for him.
 Boyfriend , girlfriend or monk , in the room he was great as always and seemed as happy  as I was so another 6th overnight meeting this trip was chalked off as ‘outstanding ‘. For tip he asked it should be I thought   but at least he delivered big and in style.
 
 

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