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Nikom

Travel to Mandalay

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I'm planning on heading over there this coming fall given we now have reasonably priced and direct flights to both Mandalay and Yangon from Chiangmai.  I'm not sure from your post if you actually were over there or used this guy's services but, if so, can you advise what the travel time by car is between Mandalay and Bagan?  I'm just curious as I thought the distance between them was long enough to consider flying instead of going by vehicle.

 

[i'm not aware of any rule here that prevents anyone from posting contact info such as this but, if for some reason you don't want to post it here, I'd appreciate it by PM.  Thanks.]

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I have known Saw Maung for at least ten years.  Before last year he was a motor bike taxi who carried tourist around Mandalay.  He now has his own car.  He is young, very honest and always on time.

 

There are an increasing number of historical sites in and around Mandalay and across the river at Mingun.

 

There are a number of new restaurants in Mandalay not even mentioned in the guide books that Saw Maung can take you too.  Mandalay is famous for barbecue where you choose the meat, fish, vegetables you want; a large plate of rice and cold beer is delivered to your table.   Oh, by the way, a cold Myanmar Beer is the BEST!

 

Probably the best massage shop, at this time, is Lime.  See Utopia/Mandalay for an excellent review of this place.  It is located across from the University!!!   On 27th Street near the Palace walls a new place just opened:  GGG Massage, Myanmar traditional Message Parlour, Body and Oil.  Very eager to please!  [On 27th Street between 74th and 75th Streets, 09-402577711.]  There are at least two more message shops that serve tourist.  AND Yes, the guys in the shops know “happy ending”!

 

Around the corner from GGG is Boy City.  Not a body massage place but a salon for hair, facial massage, etc.  It is always full of young guys getting “prepped”. 

 

Bagan is about a 7 to 8 hour drive and yes you may want to fly.  I like going by car because I then already have a car in Bagan but also I like to stop at the little villages along the way and have tea or coffee at the shops.  It gives you a view of Myanmar country side.

 

Saw Maung:

95-9-402-714240  [inside Myanmar:  09-402-714240]

Sawmaung2010@gmail.com.  He checks his email twice a week.

He starts his mornings at the taxi stand on 27th Street at 77th Street, across the corners from the Royal City Hotel. 

 

If you are not sure about your plans or if you want to employ Saw Maung you might have him pick you up at the airport and then discuss your plans with him.

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Thanks, Nikom.....I've copied down all your valuable information for use later in the year.  But, yes, I'll probably fly between Mandalay and Bagan and 7-8 hours in a car is not my favorite thing to do (after about 3 hours I have the urge to kill somebody).

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you can actually go from Mandalay to Bagan by boat on the Irrawady river. That obviously takes a long time, too, in fact it is an overnight trip, though I can't remember how long exactly it took. But it is a peaceful, slow mode of travel and maybe a welcome change of pace. I especially enjoyed the tranquil, almost magic moments of experiencing sunrise on the upper deck (though it was freezing cold and I only had a light sweater). 

 

I actually did this in 2006, so no idea if and how it works today, so google for more information and current boat schedules. 

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I was happy to see this post. I did send an email a few days ago and received a prompt reply about an 8 day tour. But he did not answer any questions about hotels or the areas to stay in which I needed for my online visa.

 

I sent 2 more emails with dates we will be in Mandalay and asking if he is available or if he can suggest someone else if he is not. Again asking for hotel advice and the type of hotel we prefer.

 

No reply yet. But if we do end up using him, I will let others know how it went

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Sawmaung contacted me and will be picking us up at the Mandalay airport and taking us to the hotel he suggested, Royal City Mandalay.

 

He quoted a price of $100 USD a day. I am not sure of the itinerary yet, but am going on blind faith of the poster that recommended him on this board.

 

I will do a report when we return.

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He must be doing relatively well. I don't kow what wages are like there, but guess that $100 would be closer to the average monthly wage than the daily average. Good on him for showing some initiative.

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Yes, the Royal City Hotel is a good basic hotel near all the major areas.  Their email for reservations is:  royalc.873@gmail.com.

 

If you turn left when you come out of Royal City you can walk to GGG massage which is down the street about 2 or 3 minute walk on the same side of the street as the hotel.  Have not tried this one but the boy seemed very eager!  Lime Massage is south about 7 or more blocks near the University, but Mandalay blocks are LONG!

 

Every price in Myanmar is open to bargain.  The one thing that keeps going up is the price of petrol!  There are many historical sites in and around Mandalay.  Work out an itinerary and then check the cost. 

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 There are many historical sites in and around Mandalay.  Work out an itinerary and then check the cost. 

I recommend chartering boat for 1 hr trip to Mingun , small village sporting both world's biggest bell into which you can go inside and unfinished stupa, world's biggest brick structure

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The bell in Mingun was the largest functioning bell until 2000.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_heaviest_bells

 

Largest brick building in the world could be Malbork Castle (Ordensburg Marienburg in German) in Poland

http://www.architectureanddesign.com.au/features/list/largest-brick-buildings-around-the-world-infograph

or Albi Cathedral (Cathedral Basilica of Saint Cecilia) in France

http://www.slideshare.net/SearchQuestEuropeLtd/beautiful-brick-the-tallest-largest-and-loveliest-brick-structures-in-the-world

or Jetavanaramaya stupa in Sri Lanka

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jetavanaramaya

(and many more on the internet).

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I posted that I would tell about my experience using the guide service that was recommended on this site. I have been a bit hesitant to do this because it was not as positive as I had hoped, but that does not mean others should not give it a try, One disappointment is they had No idea where the gay massage or areas were, They told us they were all closed. But when we called one on our own, they said they were open. I have noticed that there is another one (GGG) that Nikon said is close to the Royal City, where we stayed, but again Saw Maung did not seem to know of any.

 

The city of Mandalay and the Mandalay Royal City were nice. The hotel staff was excellent! So this post is only about the guide service from our point of view.

 

Those involved really want to do a good job I believe. They are honest and friendly, but not as knowledgeable or as professional as we had hoped. Saw Muang turned the job over to his "brother" and another friend. 

 

First, we learned that Saw Muang does not really answer his emails by himself. He has a friend that is a licensed guide that does this for him. If he is out of town or busy guiding, there maybe a delay. This was not much of a problem at first. But we had asked for an itinerary as we were sent a 5 day itinerary but we were only there 3 1/2. We also wanted to check so logistic things like currency. Last time I was in Burma (Myanmar) the local currency was not used. I asked if this had changed and if it was easy to exchange Australian dollars as the person I was travel with now live in Australia. We received no reply and no itinerary or communication the 3 days before our trip.

 

When we arrived at the airport, on time, there was no one to pick us up. We waited 20 minutes, and were about to take a taxi to our hotel when Saw Muang and his "brother" showed up. He apologized and said his car had to go into the shop for a motor problem a few days a go so his brother ( who had a very comfortable car) would drive us. Saw Muang helped us get a sim card for our phone and we changed some money and then went off to the hotel.

 

The driver was very good and the car was really new and nice. Great air conditioner. We asked about the itinerary and Saw Muang told us he would tell us at the hotel. 

 

The hotel was basic but good and right across the street from where Saw Muang has his motor bike stand. Saw Muang told us he would take is to see some sites in the city as soon as we took our shower and were ready. So we left about an hour later about noon. He did indeed take us to see many sites. But he just dropped us off and told us to go in and look. After the 3rd site I said they usually the guide goes in and explains the site to us. This is when he told us he could not go in because he is not a guide. Has no license. But the next day his friend who had a license would be with us and Saw Muang would drive his brother's car. He also asked us for an extra $100 dollars but we declined because we had already agreed on the price. He was ok with that but asked if we could pay 1/2 of the entire price now because his brother needed to put gas into the car.

 

So next day came and Saw Muang introduced us to the person who would be our guide for the next 3 days and then told us that his brother would actually be the driver.

 

The person that became the guide did try to explain things to us, but it was hard for me to understand his accent. He seemed to know his business as he had water in the car for us to drink (we did bring two 3 liter bottles because we did not have any the day before. 

 

On our third at lunch we were dropped off at a river crossing and the guide and driver wanted to eat on one side of the river and sent us by boat to the other side. A waiter accompanied us and took us to a place to eat. No one else was there. They brought is menus and we ordered. The waiter came back and said they had no pork dishes. We changed to chicken. He came back and said the only had beef that day. I ordered rice. My friend ordered a fried mixed vegetable....both we terrible...the bottled beer was ok, So we left and found a place that had many other tourist eating. I went in and aske how the food was and the 2 tables I asked said very good! We looked at the menu and the price was 50% less and true...the food was very good!

 

When the guide caught up with us 2 hours later, I explained that and he said ...Ok, I guess I will not send tourist to where I sent you again.

 

I do not want to dissuade snyone from going to Mandalay.  It really is a wonderful place to see. And we found some great places to eat there.

 

Also the driver and guide spent a lot of time with us, I hope that Saw Muang and the guide he provided take the time to find out a little more about what gay travelers may want to know, And if the massage place are closed, can be up front about this before we arrive. And certainly communicate . 

 

Remember in the last few years tourism has risen dramatically. They are still learning how to deal with foreign tourists.

 

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That's a good report from the ground. Mandalay was not my favorite place. It was there that the old (and I mean OLD) van I had been driven around in died. It certainly couldn't compare to Mrauk U and Bagan...or even Inle Lake.

 

I had arranged my trip via Purple Dragon and their in-country partner agency. This was 4 years ago so I am sure things have changed a lot since then. My guide in Yangon was pretty obviously gay and he mentioned a couple of gay areas but did not take me to any. In other places I did not even really ask about gay entertainment/venues. But that wasn't my primary purpose there anyway.

 

It's a shame that the "reforms" have all been such a sham. All of those international brands might rue their rush in. Or it's possible they won't care as long as they are making money.

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