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CurtisD

We Travel Again

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I'm guessing Mandalay was your first stop and Bagan the second>

Question for you: Did Bangkok Guy show any reluctance to visit Myanmar?

My Thai BF is very reluctant to visit Myanmar as he feels he will not be welcome there (ancient enemy and all that) so it is always instantly crossed off the list. Funnily enough he has no issues in Cambodia these days, but he felt very uncomfortable on our first visit there in 2004, so much so we left a day earlier than planned

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39 minutes ago, colmx said:

I'm guessing Mandalay was your first stop and Bagan the second>

Question for you: Did Bangkok Guy show any reluctance to visit Myanmar?

My Thai BF is very reluctant to visit Myanmar as he feels he will not be welcome there (ancient enemy and all that) so it is always instantly crossed off the list. Funnily enough he has no issues in Cambodia these days, but he felt very uncomfortable on our first visit there in 2004, so much so we left a day earlier than planned

Right on both.

No reluctance to visit Myanmar at all. He has friends from Myanmar in Bangkok. 

We encountered no hostility from the locals. 

The only odd thing was that when I asked him if he had told his friends where he was going, the reply was yes-with-a-shuffle. Turns out the friend he had not told was the one from Myanmar. The reason was lost in translation, but I think it was something along the lines of  his friend would want to come and could not, so better not to tell.

Discussing the next trip, he does not want to go to Cambodia. His official reason is that I have been there, so why go again?

The actual reason is that he is keen to travel to places that are both more modern and more distant. 

I think he may feel that Laos, Myanmar and Cambodia are too much like visiting secondary parts of Thailand without the benefit of Thai people to talk to and Thai food to eat.  

He is quietly adventurous, so he would rather forgo the familiarity of home for something exotic (to him) and modern (he is a Bangkok person). 

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I’m sorry if I missed this part in your reports. Did you fly in to Yangon or it a direct flight to Mandalay? A while ago I discussed with a boy about taking him on a short trip, but couldn’t find any nearby country that held his attention. In his words “Thailand good, have everything” and upon being shown photos of Bagan he in return showed me photos of Ayutthaya lol. But recently he enthusiastically Line’d me photos of the Shwedagon Pagoda. Turns out one of his friends told him this was the place to go to pray for a financial windfall. No idea where these barboys are getting their information. He was rather crestfallen when I told him Shwedagon is extremely touristy and he’d be better off at the Four Face Buddha in Bangkok. 

Mandalay could be a good option for us if there is enough to see and do, apart from 1700 steps which I already know he won’t be up for. Is it still less touristy and can the food be adapted for a Thai palate? However I do want to see Bagan too so another option is to leave him out entirely. 

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57 minutes ago, hank75 said:

But recently he enthusiastically Line’d me photos of the Shwedagon Pagoda. Turns out one of his friends told him this was the place to go to pray for a financial windfall. No idea where these barboys are getting their information.

Lol! As the saying goes, money makes the world go round!

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9 hours ago, CurtisD said:

The actual reason is that he is keen to travel to places that are both more modern and more distant. 

I think he may feel that Laos, Myanmar and Cambodia are too much like visiting secondary parts of Thailand without the benefit of Thai people to talk to and Thai food to eat.  

He is quietly adventurous, so he would rather forgo the familiarity of home for something exotic (to him) and modern (he is a Bangkok person). 

So take him to the Philippines or Kuala Lampur. Both have modern Cites and beautiful places to visit...

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Most enjoyable reports. I was happy not to know about where you/we actually were, as it allowed all the focus to be on the relationship, on which you write entertainingly, and leaves the posts not cluttered up with the travel details. Perhaps a little travel detail summary only at the end of the journey, which i am looking forward to continue.

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4 hours ago, hank75 said:

He was rather crestfallen when I told him Shwedagon is extremely touristy and he’d be better off at the Four Face Buddha in Bangkok. 

I don't understand this.  Shwedagon is the most holy Buddhist site in Myanmar - and once you're outside the actual places where Buddha lived, surely one of the most sacred Theravadan Buddhist spaces in the world.  Definitely of greater importance than Erawan Shrine (assuming that's what you're referring to.)  Yes there are western tourists at Shwedagon, but I don't think the fact that there are western tourists (or non-Burmese tourists) at Shwedagon makes it any lesser and, in any event, Burmese people still go there "religiously." (pun intended).

It certainly wouldn't surprise me to hear that making a pilgrimage to earn merit at Shwedagon would - for believers - have lots of benefits.  Financial success, health, etc.  

I guess my concern is that sometimes local guys take what we say as true.  In this case I think the statement is very much not true.

12 hours ago, CurtisD said:

 He is quietly adventurous, so he would rather forgo the familiarity of home for something exotic (to him) and modern (he is a Bangkok person). 

In my experience, local guys love - in no particular order:  Singapore, Bali, Vietnam, Malaysia (KL and/or Penang).  All are easy no-visa-required spots.  I think most of them just want to travel, and aren't very picky.  Their well-traveled friends have gone to these places and posted on Facebook, so travel-envy kicks in.  I know a bunch of Thai and Laos "working" guys who have gone to Vietnam just with their friends, so it clearly has attractions for them, including being inexpensive.  Freelancers regularly go to Singapore and KL (and China of course), so those places are always on the Facebook radar screen.  I think fewer go/or get taken to the Philippines.  

These places are just the easiest.  Next round would be Japan, South Korea & Taiwan.  

Personally, when I go to be tourist in one of the Myanmar-Laos-Cambodia-Thaland-Vietnam countries, I prefer to bring guy from that country, so I have local guide/interpreter of sorts and they usually enjoying showing off their home countries (and often their homes).  But they all love Singapore and Bali.  (Recently I took someone to western Java, and he liked it.  But I think he just likes to travel.)

 

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12 minutes ago, DivineMadman said:

I don't understand this.  Shwedagon is the most holy Buddhist site in Myanmar - and once you're outside the actual places where Buddha lived, surely one of the most sacred Theravadan Buddhist spaces in the world.  Definitely of greater importance than Erawan Shrine (assuming that's what you're referring to.)  Yes there are western tourists at Shwedagon, but I don't think the fact that there are western tourists (or non-Burmese tourists) at Shwedagon makes it any lesser and, in any event, Burmese people still go there "religiously." (pun intended).

It certainly wouldn't surprise me to hear that making a pilgrimage to earn merit at Shwedagon would - for believers - have lots of benefits.  Financial success, health, etc.  

I guess my concern is that sometimes local guys take what we say as true.  In this case I think the statement is very much not true.

 

I would happily stand to be corrected if anyone can affirmatively tell me that they have been to Shwedagon in the past year, it was not crammed with tourists and touts, and had locals worshipping. My own memories are hazy but I recall tour buses, and Buddhas draped with fairy lights and neon halos. Not what I would travel a distance and incur expenses  to visit. But admittedly it has been some years. Western tourists are not my worry, Asian tour groups are especially the Chinese and Korean who are everywhere in great quantities (well with the exception of this month.

I have some thoughts and questions on the other suggestions you, GWMinUS and spoon kindly made and will start another thread so as not to clutter up CurtisD’s report which I am enjoying as much for his writing as for the content. 

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7 minutes ago, hank75 said:

I would happily stand to be corrected if anyone can affirmatively tell me that they have been to Shwedagon in the past year, it was not crammed with tourists and touts, and had locals worshipping. My own memories are hazy but I recall tour buses, and Buddhas draped with fairy lights and neon halos. Not what I would travel a distance and incur expenses  to visit. But admittedly it has been some years. Western tourists are not my worry, Asian tour groups are especially the Chinese and Korean who are everywhere in great quantities (well with the exception of this month.

 

I can confirm that locals do go there to worship.  I just got pictures from a Burmese friend who went there to make merit on his birthday (a journey from his village several hours away).  Do you know the relics that are there and the importance of the relics?  The fairy lights and neon halos were there when Myanmar was still subject to the embargo - long before the current tourist craze.  And in any event, just because you might find them an odd aesthetic choice doesn't change the "merit" (pun intended) of the site to a believer - and that was the context of the statement I was calling into question.  And by the way, you see same neon lights in Laos, Thailand.....

Your comment to a local Buddhist guy - as you reported it -- wasn't that you didn't want to go there because you don't like the crowds or he wouldn't like it because of the crowds.  Your statement - as you reported it - was that he would be better off going to the Erawan Shrine.  My point was that from my understanding of Theravadan Buddhism that's not correct.  

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8 minutes ago, DivineMadman said:

Your comment to a local Buddhist guy - as you reported it -- wasn't that you didn't want to go there because you don't like the crowds or he wouldn't like it because of the crowds.  Your statement - as you reported it - was that he would be better off going to the Erawan Shrine.  My point was that from my understanding of Theravadan Buddhism that's not correct.  

Point taken, and maybe I should elaborate. Boy in question - like most Thais - is an avid temple goer. Once we were in the vicinity of the Four Face Buddha and I suggested going together for him to make merit, this received a very grudging reaction and an “Up to you”, upon prodding I received a somewhat garbled explanation that the shrine was good for foreigners but Thai people could go elsewhere (untrue I know, many Thais worship there too but this is just specific to the same boy who wanted to go to Shwedagon). My assumption from his response was, either he thought the hordes of tourists compromised the efficacy of the Buddha (on his personal level, as no Thai would ever say the Four Face was not efficacious) or he disliked the crowds too or else he thought it was just too expensive with falang pricing on the offerings. Never got to the bottom of this. But my point with Shwedagon was, if he didn’t enjoy the Four Face Buddha experience (and even Wat Hua Lamphong which I enjoy visiting and he visibly does not) he would likely not enjoy the equally touristic Shwedagon. But you are right and I will do more research on the relics too in case this balances out the stress of braving crowds.

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9 hours ago, hank75 said:

I’m sorry if I missed this part in your reports. Did you fly in to Yangon or it a direct flight to Mandalay? A while ago I discussed with a boy about taking him on a short trip, but couldn’t find any nearby country that held his attention. In his words “Thailand good, have everything” and upon being shown photos of Bagan he in return showed me photos of Ayutthaya lol. But recently he enthusiastically Line’d me photos of the Shwedagon Pagoda. Turns out one of his friends told him this was the place to go to pray for a financial windfall. No idea where these barboys are getting their information. He was rather crestfallen when I told him Shwedagon is extremely touristy and he’d be better off at the Four Face Buddha in Bangkok. 

Mandalay could be a good option for us if there is enough to see and do, apart from 1700 steps which I already know he won’t be up for. Is it still less touristy and can the food be adapted for a Thai palate? However I do want to see Bagan too so another option is to leave him out entirely. 

Flew Bangkok to Mandalay and then to Bagan.

There is plenty in Mandalay for 2-3 days at a 'farmers' pace. Mandalay Hill you can short circuit the whole 1,729 steps and take a tuk tuk to almost the top and then an elevator right into the main temple on the top. 

Not that many tourists in Mandalay.

More tourists in Bagan (or possibly just a smaller area to concentrate them in), but not enough to worry about.

Apparently the Rohinga situation has reduced tourist numbers generally, particularly from the US. Enough to delay plans to develop a number of up-market chain hotels in Bagan. Go now before that changes. A few Chinese, Japanese and Koreans and the occasional Indian family. 

Interestingly, a number of Burmese tourists in both places.

As we were there only a short time we ate at our hotels, with one exception, so did not really get a feel for local food. However, from that limited exposure, there are both 'knock-offs' of Thai dishes and Burmese dishes which look similar. Bangkok Guy ate it happily with the comment that the spice level needed to be higher. He thought it had been de-spiced for falang. 

Bagan I would go. Does Ayutthaya have balloons? That could be a draw for your friend.

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4 hours ago, DivineMadman said:

In my experience, local guys love - in no particular order:  Singapore, Bali, Vietnam, Malaysia (KL and/or Penang).  All are easy no-visa-required spots.  I think most of them just want to travel, and aren't very picky.  Their well-traveled friends have gone to these places and posted on Facebook, so travel-envy kicks in.  I know a bunch of Thai and Laos "working" guys who have gone to Vietnam just with their friends, so it clearly has attractions for them, including being inexpensive.  Freelancers regularly go to Singapore and KL (and China of course), so those places are always on the Facebook radar screen.  I think fewer go/or get taken to the Philippines.  

These places are just the easiest.  Next round would be Japan, South Korea & Taiwan.  

Reading this I feel like Bangkok Guy reacting to my suggestion that he pray for success for my business "How you know this falang?"  

Next round is as you mention, substituting Hong Kong/Macau for South Korea as he has been there.

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Early to Bed and Very Early to Rise

Around 9.30pm Bangkok Guy drops the hint that we should go sleep. Early morning tomorrow. The ‘farmer’ framing of the schedule is working.

As agreed, I get up at 4.15am. Bangkok Guy follows at 4.45am and we are at reception to meet our driver and fellow passengers by 5.15am.

Pre-dawn at the launch site it is slightly chilly despite hot coffee.

Then the excitement starts as we walk onto the launch field and watch the balloons inflate. It is an impressive sight.

Crouching in the basket as we gently take off Bangkok Guy is grinning ear-to-ear.

The ensuing fifty minute flight I absolutely recommend.

We fly low and the pilot rotates the basket so we see the low-angled dawn light illuminating the temples and the early mist. Each ‘couple’ has their own little compartment and Bangkok Guy and I trade positions for photo ops.

In addition to the temples and the broader view, the sight of around 31 balloons from three different companies all aloft in the same breeze is quite something.

The major event of the trip is over all too soon and we are back by the pool for an early breakfast, pouring over the photos.

The rest of the day is allotted to resting by the pool and some work for me as the internet connection is good.

Our pilot was a font of local information and we take his advice for dinner that evening and a half day excursion the next morning.

The in-flight magazine of the local airline featured an article on a group of temples perched on top of a dramatic volcanic plug with the appearance of rising sheer into the air from nowhere. It turns out to be an hour and a half’s drive away. It looks so surreal that we are both keen to go.

After a leisurely 9am start we are soon moving at a moderate pace on a somewhat undulating road through trees interspersed with small scale agriculture. At about the half way mark the tress and scrub stay but signs of cultivation disappear – possibly an irrigation issue or a soil deficiency? The forest covered volcanic cone and the associated plug come into view and soon the road ascends sharply, winding along the forest covered hillside.

As we approach, the volcanic plug with its crown of temples is as surreal and unexpected as it appeared in the in-flight magazine.

Many locals are using these temples, as was also the case with the larger group of temples we visited on our first day. While this complex has only 777 steps to the summit, they are much steeper, particularly two flights of steel steps. The faithful are undeterred. An elderly and quite heavy matron is carried up and back in a hammock attached to a bamboo pole.     

The monkeys are a complication.

The ascent must be undertaken barefoot. The golden brown monkeys are cute. People feed them, so they cluster around the path and do what well fed-and-watered monkeys do. Do Do. A better prepared couple are wiping their feet with sanitary wipes post-descent. I do not mention these observations to Bangkok Guy.

The steps look quite clean. At intervals we encounter cleaners who request tips. Bangkok Guy is keeper of the tip money and I suggest to him that tips are a good idea. He is not quite sure why, but tips one cleaner.

At the start of our descent a monkey releases quite a discharge of urine in front of us.

The look of quiet horror and realization on Bangkok Guys face is a picture. Though the steps look clean, we are all probably walking on a miasma of monkey pee and poop. Bangkok Guy is particular about cleanliness. He descends with a grim face (grim for him, he does not really have a ‘grim’ face), tipping each cleaner. “Good from distance, too many monkey” is his summary.

A surprise hit is the TV at our hotel. It has HBO’s ‘Red’ channel, which I have not encountered before. I watch very little TV, but am hooked on the Japanese drama and mystery programs. Bangkok Guy enjoys them as well and also finds much entertainment in my new interest in TV and the opportunity it affords to indulge in silly horseplay – fighting over the pillows as we sit on the bed, stealing the remote, shrieking at tense plot points to see me jump out of my skin.

In summary: Balloon ride: huge smile, “Really good”. Large area of temples: good. Temples-on-plug: set- face-with-nose-wrinkle, “Monkey”. Food: “Thai food better”. The real issue with the food was that it was de-spiced to make safe for Falang and, unlike Laos, he could not communicate to get it re-spiced.

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8 hours ago, GWMinUS said:

So take him to the Philippines or Kuala Lampur. Both have modern Cites and beautiful places to visit...

Manila I do not like. However, the areas of natural beauty might be interesting as he likes the outdoors.

Malaysia I have not considered as my understanding is that it is not gay friendly?

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On 2/1/2020 at 9:35 PM, CurtisD said:

All the guidebooks suggest that the mode of transport de rigueur is bicycle or scooter or horse-drawn cart.

I was there in 2006 and horse-drawn cart was the ONLY mode of transport (ok, maybe bicycle, I don't remember for sure), definitely no scooters let alone airconditioned car lol. We did enjoy the horse-draw cart thing very much though, it just adds to the experience of visiting these ancient sites.

As for Shwedagon (and all other temples in Myanmar), I can confirm what @DivineMadman said, the awfully tacky neon bling-bling lights on the Buddhas were in full force back then, well before the country opened up and even before the (attempted) monks' revolution (or whatever it was called).

Very enjoyable and entertaining report, like someone said both for style and content!

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2 hours ago, CurtisD said:

Manila I do not like. However, the areas of natural beauty might be interesting as he likes the outdoors.

Malaysia I have not considered as my understanding is that it is not gay friendly?

Big cities in malaysia is gay friendly enough. I guess pda is frowned upon, but that goes for both gay or straight pda. Yes politician used homophobic sentiment to garner votes but apart from that, u can see gays, ladyboys, corss dressers working in shopping malls, grindr is active and lively, freelancer MB are abundance, and there are several gay massage places and gay sauna around, but finding one might be a bit hard without locals or someone who have been there. 

As you can see happened in thailand as well, raids do happen here at these massage places and sauna, but mainly by immigration to catch illegal workers. Those places are still open after raids and none of the customers nor foreigners with legal documentation going there were brought to police station. 

I can only say this in KL, but if u are going with your boys, gay scene is probably not important. No one cares if you travel with your guy here, as long as you arent kissing in public hehe.

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Apologies for the post above! I seemed to have temporarily lost my ability to quote and comment in the same post, mea culpa! Feel free to delete.

 

4 hours ago, CurtisD said:

“Good from distance, too many monkey” is his summary.

 

I think that sums it all up very well. It is sometimes surprising how efficiently a less accomplished linguist can use language. Anyway I loved it as a summary!

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