Bangkok/Yangon/Bagan/Mandalay Trip Report: Playing With Fire

[numazu]

I'm going to suggest you trawled for info rather than trolled.  Not your style 

 

Yes trolling is not my style . Thanks for introducing the word "trawl" to me. It may be more appropriate.

 

certainly that can't  be said about overwhelming majority of us farangs and our Thai ( Burmese, Lao, Cambodian, Viet ) boys , lucky you and enjoy while it lasts, LOL  

Of course, as Vinapu has already mentioned, the thing that I am most envious about is that you can still fit into a medium-sized T-shirt! LOL

 

Haha I did not think about that. Believe it or not I wore Small in my twink days. Time is no friend to the metabolism, as I discover that while BurBoy eats what he wants and still manages to retain his six pack abs, mine disappears as soon as I even think about food. Sad fact of life, but as you point out, I am still luckier than most. 

 

LOL!  Not even when traveling with a Tawan boy ?

 

Tawan boys Phet, Boy and Soda all wear mediums. Tong, my long time off and driver last June, wears XL because of his massive chest and biceps, but he has six pack abs, something my medium-sized torso does not have (at least after this holiday, trying to get it back, its so hard).

 

What an astonishing last day up in those balloons, as you and others have said life-time memories in the making both for you and for Bur-Boy.

nice to know that ballooning made such  a progress in Bagan , when I took the same adventure back in 2001,  ours  ( the same,  Baloons over Bagan) was only one in the air, could be booked day in advance and cost only 195 USD

 

You are right , it's adventure worth every penny and one remembers it forever. 

 

On my day back, my boss asked all of us in the department what was the coolest thing we did over the holidays. I showed them my balloon photos and hands down I won that challenge. BurBoy and I still talk about it to this day, and BurBoy has shared his photos and stories with his family and friends. He had to lie about it to his family though, saying that he only paid 200 baht for it. They know he can't afford the $380, and he didn't want them to ask any more questions about how he was able to afford that.

 

And what a difference from 2001, with only one balloon, and being able to book it the day before. Right now they can't keep up with the demand, at least in high season. I believe you can get it cheaper in off-season months.

 

Numazu, you're wise to undertake these adventures at a relatively young age and fortunate to have found a guy who brings so much sheer joy into the relationship.  Butterfly or no butterfly, you're one lucky guy.  One of the things I find myself occasionally falling victim to is the feeling that it's too late to fully enjoy life. But what really holds me back is not physical constraint but a mental one that often finds excuses to believe that it's even possible. Sharing your experiences challenges that mindset. Thanks for taking the time to put these reports together; they're like a not-so-gentle nudge in the back.

Spot-on!   That's absolutely spot-on! 

 

'Carpe Diem' was the Roman phrase, and how many of actually do still 'seize the day' as middle-age overtakes us.

 

This TR is proving an inspiration perhaps even a guilt-trip to some of us all-too-far-from-medium-sized couch potatoes.

 

Thanks guys. If I can inspire anyone to take the plunge and discover avenues previously unexplored, then I have done my duty. I fucking hate platitudes, but really: don't be a passive bystander in your own life. Stop doing what's comfortable, and start challenging yourself. A life changing event that I can't talk about here, happened some years ago for me, and that was the kick in the pants I needed to stop worrying about what is perceived to be acceptable, and just live my own life.  And not the way I think it should be, but with an open mind and just going with the flow. I've never been happier.

[vinapu]

I've never been happier.

 

and we wish you you will be even happier in the future

[vinapu]

 Believe it or not I wore Small in my twink days.

we all were, thankfully those skinny days are behind most of us.

[Moses]

 Right now they can't keep up with the demand, at least in high season. I believe you can get it cheaper in off-season months.

 

As I'v been told they don't fly at low season: too risky. At hot season balloons have no power cuz air outside and air inside balloon have not enough difference in temperature (that why even at high season they fly only early morning - at most cool time). At rain season another reason: at rain balloon becomes too heavy when is wet.

[steveboy]

Haha I did not think about that. Believe it or not I wore Small in my twink days. Time is no friend to the metabolism, as I discover that while BurBoy eats what he wants and still manages to retain his six pack abs, mine disappears as soon as I even think about food. Sad fact of life, but as you point out, I am still luckier than most. 

 

 

Tawan boys Phet, Boy and Soda all wear mediums. Tong, my long time off and driver last June, wears XL because of his massive chest and biceps, but he has six pack abs, something my medium-sized torso does not have (at least after this holiday, trying to get it back, its so hard).

 

The ravages of age are so common...  but they don't have to be.  Metabolism changes, but it does not need to be the enemy.

 

A younger person and smart traveler can anticipate the changes in the body with age, and make simple adjustments. It is all a matter of habit, and with the little work of acquiring the good habits, decades can pass without any size increases and even with improvements from skinny and weak to strong and firm.  I have found some very minor drawback:  clothes can get very old if we don't have the need to buy bigger ones.  One can be wearing jeans and shirts that are 25 years old...   I used to wear medium as a young man, and now I like the small  (this is the "small"in the US, not the one in Thailand) because tight looks good and I'm not so formal anymore    

[numazu]

Day 6.25: Eating Our Way Through Bagan

 

It was only 8:30 AM by the time we get back to the hotel. We have planned a full-day tour today of the Bagan temples, which we scheduled at 10:30 AM because we didn’t know how long the balloon ride experience will take. At the room we compare photos and sent it to social media and our loved ones. We were super psyched about it and were still on a high from the great experience. Its not everyday you get to ride on a hot air balloon.

 

The breads and champagne were not enough for two hungry boys this morning. We head over to the Acacia Shade Restaurant for the breakfast buffet included in our stay. I didn’t spare any details, I wanted the buffet to be big and full of variety, more for BurBoy than myself. He likes buffets, and the combination of Asian and Western choices. He loves the Crowne Plaza breakfast buffet, if ever we could wake up early enough to enjoy it. I’ve read good things about the food so was looking forward to this.

 

We get to the buffet around 9:45 AM, and the place was almost empty, perhaps because tours start before 8AM:

 

 

We choose a table right next to the Irrawady river. Nice views, and nice breeze going on:

 

 

We head over to the buffet and help ourselves. Some nice selection of western meats like bacon, sausage and ham.

 

 

There was an omelet station and they will make your egg any way you like. They had Asian options like curries, rice and congee. And nice selection of juices that were actually superior to most of the Thai buffets I’ve tried. The coffee was nice and strong, and there was enough selection of breads to satisfy BurBoy. We enjoyed food together like we enjoyed sex together.

 

We return to the room to prepare for the tour. BurBoy decides to wear his longyi in the tour, so he took off his shorts and wore his nice longyi. I ask if I should do the same. He told me that he feels that I am not comfortable with wearing one yet, so I should wear my shorts, but he will bring my longyi just in case I needed it. He takes our power banks and sunscreen and puts everything in his little bag. We get a call in our hotel phone and we get a call from our tour guide for the day, Kaung from SiamRoads:

 

 

At 19, he is the youngest of all the tour guides of Siam Roads. When I was planning the tour to Myanmar, I was eager to get Kaung for the Bagan leg, after my success with Ya in Bangkok and Sareth in Siem Reap. Both were gay friendly (and gay themselves), and I had no problem bringing my boy companions with me when on tour with them. It added the extra dimension I needed that I may not find with just the normal tours. I felt that Kaung will be the same, and his rates were fine with me.

 

I asked Ya for Kaung’s contacts and immediately got introduced to Kaung through phone messenger. I told Kaung what I looked for and what dates. He answered in good English and had plenty of suggestions on how the tour would go. Later in my conversations with him, I added a short Mandalay leg as well, and he was able to secure the arrangements for that. And since BurBoy was an equal partner in the tour, I had him talk to Kaung separately. He reported back that he thought Kaung would be a good choice for us, and BurBoy told Kaung that we were boyfriends so there were no surprises. Everything was set.

 

We head over to the lobby reception to meet Kaung. Kaung was talking to the receptionists when we met him. He was dressed in a long-sleeved shirt and a longyi and slippers. He looked professional and appropriate for the country at the same time. He greeted me with a handshake, and asked how was our balloon ride. I sung its praises to Kaung and showed him a video that I took. He smiled and then identified some of the temples we were flying over in the video. He knew his temples for sure.

 

He then turns his attention to BurBoy, first talking in English, and then shifting to Burmese, where they were more comfortable speaking anyway. He then escorts both of us to the car we were using for the day. Our driver was a tall young guy who was chewing some betel nut. He shook both our hands and revealed his red teeth. There were three Burmese boys in my car for a full-day tour of ancient temples. This was my kind of tour.

 

Kaung asked me the night before to see if I can come up with a list of temples I wanted to visit. Since I did not know my temples, I just went online and looked at the most popular ones. I chose the ones that looked good in photos. I showed Kaung my list and he wrote it all down in his notebook. He told me that they were good and popular choices, and the 10 I chose he said were all doable to go to in one day. In his notepad, he ordered the temples by location to each other and talked it over with the driver. They came up with a full-day itinerary right there, choosing temples by their distance and closeness to one another. He then showed me the list (it was written in Burmese), but he read the list to me and BurBoy.

 

Kaung asked me if I bought a ticket for the temples yet. I said I haven’t yet. Kaung then produces this ticket. He says in his last tour the customer forgot to take his ticket. He said we can just use it for today if get asked for it, and later on the way we will buy one:

 

 

It was 25,000 kyat, so I wasn’t worried about paying for it. I would probably be OK with just using this ticket, but really wanted to pay for it because I was a visitor and wanted to contribute to the development of this area.

 

BurBoy then talked to Kaung and driver for a bit. They get into an animated discussion while we drive away from the hotel. You can see the driver and BurBoy wearing their longyis:

 

 

They get into an agreement as we get on the main road. BurBoy then tells me he wanted to show me a traditional store on the way, and for me to try a traditional palm sugar juice and some snacks. You want to eat again? I ask him. He laughed and said yes, he just wanted me to try it, since Kaung said one was on the way to our first temple.

 

We arrive at our roadside snack break:

 

 

It was a compound of huts with benches and tables in them. There were a few customers but we got led to an empty hut with seats:

 

 

BurBoy and I sit down. Kaung sits beside BurBoy. I tell Kaung to get the driver to sit with us. Kaung shouts to the driver and the driver shouts back. Kaung said the driver was shy. I laugh and say OK. We get served this clay pot and glasses:

 

 

BurBoy pours me a glass and it looked like it was water coming from dirty pipes, or if you lived in Flint, Michigan:

 

 

BurBoy explains to me what it was. It was palm sugar juice, or Jaggery juice, made of course from palm sap. This is what jaggery looks like:

 

 

And this is how jaggery is made, which is boiling palm syrup:

 

 

Kaung and BurBoy told me stories on how they drank this as kids. I took one sip and it was sweet but not overly so. I downed my whole glass and Kaung quickly refills it. We get served a little snack, some corned lamb:

 

 

BurBoy and I just ate, but we eat this fairly quickly. I was eager to try the local and authentic stuff, and BurBoy was exposing me a to lot of it.

 

We inspect the grounds a little bit. Before we leave I take a photo of the name of the place. It wasn’t in English so I felt this was a local favorite, and not a tourist trap. I ask BurBoy the name of the place, and said “Hatn Ayr”.

 

 

So with our bellies filled with sugar juice, we head over to our first temple.

 

Next, Shwe Zigon Pagoda, and nine others…

[TotallyOz]

Sorry I am late to the game.  I read this entire thread today word for word and am just amazed and impressed and inspired.  There is so much detailed information here and also some great sex along with way.  I love it!

[Manly69]

What a memorable experience,great photos also..

[numazu]

Day 6.5: Touring Temples with Boys: Bagan Edition Part 1

 

Also could be titled: Who knew I would love Buddhist temples so much?

 

My September trip to Angkor Wat was a joy. It was a treat to see this world famous temple for the first time. But it was also sensory overload, with having too many things happening at the same time. Sareth did his best in focusing the tour for me so I can learn a lot about the ancient temple. But bringing three Jomtien boys with me gave the tour a little bit of chaos. Their boy energy sometimes enhanced the tour, and sometimes muddied the waters a bit.

 

This time it was different. BurBoy had an abundance of boy energy, sure, probably even more than those three flighty boys combined. But he was also very interested in knowing about his heritage through visiting these temples. He came from a place of curiosity, and reverence, and this gave the tour a deeper meaning for me as well. He wanted to know more about his country, and therefore I wanted to know more about it as well. After not knowing anything about Myanmar just a few short weeks ago, I am now chock full of knowledge.

 

I’ll try to describe the temples we visited, and will try not to make the descriptions too dry. I have a million photos that I took of these beautiful temples, and I am very proud of them. I am showing some highlights, but trust that I have taken so much more.

 

Temple #1: Shwezigon Pagoda

 

BurBoy tells me that one of the things that distinguishes Burmese language from Thai was the existence of the shw- and z- sounds. I do hear it sometimes on Myanmar TV. And Shwezigon Pagoda is our first stop. Built in the 12^th century by a monarch of the Pagan dynasty (and where Bagan got its name). Its not as opulent as its more audacious brother, the Shwedagon, but it was one of the musts in Bagan:

 

 

We take off our slippers before we get in the compound. This would be a recurring thing for me with all the temples: walking barefoot when going in these religious sites. Kaung informs me that I came at a bad time. The gilded stupa was being re-gilded currently, so the structure was covered for the renovation:

 

 

This photo shows that the gold was getting stripped a bit from this lion, so they had a ways to go to re-gild everything:

 

 

The pagoda was the center of the complex, but the real sights to see were the temples surrounding the pagoda:

 

 

We pass by some of them and Kaung tells me that since Myanmar consisted of individual states with their own cultures and languages, this pagoda complex had a little bit of everything that represented a lot of the country. Also, there were some contributions by the Chinese and the Japanese, who have greatly contributed to the upkeep and modernization of the pagoda complex.

 

Some highlights. One temple had representations of the life of the Buddha, here he is as a prince on horseback:

 

 

The intricate tiling in one of the temples built by the British, as well as the gorgeous ceiling:

 

 

 

An old pagoda umbrella turned into a spinning “wishing well” of sorts:

 

 

The umbrella was on a rotating table, and inside were individual containers you can try to throw your money in. If your money goes in one of the containers, you will get your wish according to the fortune corresponding to the container. Pictured are for “May you meet with those who love you” and “May you be well and happy”:

 

 

There was a farang trying his luck on the love thing. BurBoy got his wish on being rich and prosperous.

 

Temple #2: Htiliminlo Temple

 

Pronounced tee-loh-meh-loh, this was a 13^th century temple named after the monarch who built it. This king was one of the last monarchs who got to build these grand temples. This shot was taken actually at a neighboring temple, showing the top being repaired from the beating it got from the recent earthquake:

 

 

Inside, the temple had very many places for worship, and had many Buddha statues where devotees took the time to pay respects. Two of large buddhas is shown here. It had an interesting face common with Burmese buddhas:

 

 

 

Kaung tells me that most of the walls here were painted with white paint over the years, covering some of the painted murals. This was part of the restoration effort to expose the painted over murals:

 

 

Nearby there was a smaller temple that was part of the Htilomilo complex. We had to walk on grass and dirt so because we were barefoot, the temple had complementary slippers for everyone to use to cross over the grass and dirt to get to this smaller temple. The entrance was low, and we had to crouch to get into it. Inside there were kids asking for donations from tourists. They did not ask BurBoy and Kaung for money, but they looked at me and did a double take and did not know what to do with me. Pictured is Kaung heading down one of the stairs, lighted with candles because it was dark inside, in the smaller temple, and a kid asking for money:

 

 

On top of the smaller temple was a view to other nearby temples:

 

 

 

There's 2000+ of these temples. Impossible to visit them all in one day.

 

“Temple” #3: Tharabha Gate

 

I wanted to see one of the oldest structures in the Bagan archeological site, so Kaung suggested going to Tharabha Gate. The 9^th century gate was one of twelve original gates for the walls that enclosed the original Bagan, and predated most of the construction of most of the other temples. Most of what is left has been reconstructed recently:

 

 

It was a quick drive in, and we quickly moved on from there.

 

Temple #4: Ananda Temple

 

One of the more interesting temples of the trip, Ananda was high on my list. It had tremendous Indian influences, and was symmetrical. Inside, a lot of locals and tourists visiting:

 

 

 

Inside where four very tall standing Buddhas, and one of each was facing North, South, East and West. The wonderful thing about them was that they were made of solid teak wood, as Kaung invited me to knock on one of them to make sure they were wood. Here is Konagamana, the East facing one:

 

 

As we head away from Konagama we get greeted by a few Burmese people:

 

 

Outside, we admire the impressive architecture of the temple, as we walked barefoot through the grounds. Lots of photos with BurBoy, of the structure:

 

 

We walk around the grounds, and see that there is a lot of restoration being done still:

 

 

Kaung finds a camera left by a tourist. He looks for the administrator of the temple and it takes a while for him to find him so he can turn over the camera. BurBoy and I wait by the shops in the temple:

 

 

Kaung finally turns the camera over to the administrator. He said that of all the things a tourist may lose during a tour, the camera probably would be the most devastating loss of all. All the tangible memories of the tour lost with the loss of the camera. So it was important for him to see that the camera is returned. A few hours later he gets a call from the administrator saying that the Japanese owner of the camera was overjoyed that they got their camera back, and wanted to give Kaung a reward. He said he turned it down and he was just glad the owner claimed the camera.

 

So more, with my good boys, next…

[numazu]

As I'v been told they don't fly at low season: too risky. At hot season balloons have no power cuz air outside and air inside balloon have not enough difference in temperature (that why even at high season they fly only early morning - at most cool time). At rain season another reason: at rain balloon becomes too heavy when is wet.

 

Yes they do not fly when it is too hot, windy or wet. My understanding is they only fly between October and April. I've also seen online that you can get a slight discount when booked through travel agents but you have to pay cash. Also, in low tourist volume  months like October, November and March and April, they are known to give the slight discounts as well.

 

we all were, thankfully those skinny days are behind most of us.

The ravages of age are so common...  but they don't have to be.  Metabolism changes, but it does not need to be the enemy.

 

A younger person and smart traveler can anticipate the changes in the body with age, and make simple adjustments. It is all a matter of habit, and with the little work of acquiring the good habits, decades can pass without any size increases and even with improvements from skinny and weak to strong and firm.  I have found some very minor drawback:  clothes can get very old if we don't have the need to buy bigger ones.  One can be wearing jeans and shirts that are 25 years old...   I used to wear medium as a young man, and now I like the small  (this is the "small"in the US, not the one in Thailand) because tight looks good and I'm not so formal anymore  

 

As you can see, both BurBoy and I love to eat, constantly and a lot. He doesn't put on any weight, and seem to keep his abs intact even after two weeks of eating with me. I am not as fortunate and have to work on it when not on vacation. But yes, I am glad I am not skinny anymore, but sometimes wish my body handled food better like when I was in my early 20s.

 

What a memorable experience,great photos also..

Sorry I am late to the game.  I read this entire thread today word for word and am just amazed and impressed and inspired.  There is so much detailed information here and also some great sex along with way.  I love it!

 

Thanks guys. Its nice for me to relive the moments when I wrote them, and then relive them again when I post them. Alas, there is not enough sex in this report, so I hope it is fine.

 

and we wish you you will be even happier in the future

 

 

Thanks vinapu! Same to you and to everyone else here!

[steveboy]

As you can see, both BurBoy and I love to eat, constantly and a lot. He doesn't put on any weight, and seem to keep his abs intact even after two weeks of eating with me. I am not as fortunate and have to work on it when not on vacation. But yes, I am glad I am not skinny anymore, but sometimes wish my body handled food better like when I was in my early 20s.

 

It is fine to eat nearly constantly and a lot, as long as it is the right kind of food.  Maybe BurBoy eats little junk food (even if he drinks this "palm sugar juice"?).  It seems that we undervalue and abuse the stomach more than other organs and throw in food like it can process everything. But if we treat it with some expertise it can function well all our life in a digestive system that keeps us at an optimum weight and in good health. 

[numazu]

Day 6.75: Touring Temples with Boys: Bagan Edition Part 2

 

Temple #5: That Byin Nyu

 

Kaung tells us that we are heading to the tallest Temple in the Bagan zone next, the That Byin Nyu Temple. A 12^th century structure, it had the same semi-symmetrical structure like the huge Ananda Temple:

 

 

It was the façade that impressed BurBoy and I, so we took the time to get group photos with all three of us, BurBoy and I, and solo, to send friends and family. Like Ananda, the white/grey color of the temple stands out from the other traditional yellow/brown color of the rest of the temples. Because of the reent earthquake, most of the temple was closed except for a few places. We go into one of the entrances:

 

 

And find some Buddhas and tributes. BurBoy, being fairly devout, gave tribute and did his worship. I stood aside and observed BurBoy’s process that seemed so important to him:

 

 

After visiting 5 temples, it was time to eat again believe it or not. It was almost 2 PM and Kaung asks if we were hungry. I said I was getting there, BurBoy exclaimed “Yes!” so there was no question we were about to take a break to eat. Kaung asks me what I wanted. BurBoy interjects, in Burmese, and after some exchange, Kaung says we will be going to a “Burmese Buffet” where they will serve a variety of food for us to sample. BurBoy knew I needed authenticity for food, and he knew what to ask Kaung.

 

We go to the Golden Myanmar Restaurant, which up front did not look like anything special, except there was a lot of big long tables and chairs, and the restaurant was 2/3s full, even if it was late lunch. It ranks #82 out of 107 restaurants reviewed for Bagan, so not god reviews (https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g317112-d2100849-Reviews-Golden_Myanmar-Bagan_Mandalay_Region.html), but it was recommended by Kaung so not second guessing the choice. Kaung at the edge of the photo:

 

 

We get sat down and was asked what drinks we wanted. They did not serve alcohol, which concerned Kaung and BurBoy a little bit, because BurBoy wanted me to have my beer. I assured them that I was alright without beer. We got waters instead. Kaung then told me there was an opportunity to get beer later. More on that later. Kaung asked me if I wanted him to stay for lunch or should he join the driver for lunch by themselves. I tell him of course and to share in the food and tell the driver to join us. Kaung said the driver is given a lunch allowance and will not be joining us. Since I was paying for the car, the lunch for the driver was part of what I pay for, so no need to pay twice.

 

We get served food right away. It came in by the truckload:

 

 

 

Lots of choices here. At least 5 kinds of curry, a fried fish, some fresh and stir fried vegatables, some garnish like fish paste and pickled stuff. Everything was so flavorful and delicious. And as always, BurBoy would serve me the food, telling me what it was and how it was cooked, and me trying it and saying it was delicious. And it was truly delicious. Since it was a buffet, we can ask for more portions for the flat price. I loved the pork curry and the fish so I had seconds and thirds. The hungry boys had fourths.

 

I pay up, it was 13,000 kyat or so (less than $10) so it was super cheap, super authentic, and super satisfying. This was my kind of lunch.

 

Temple #6: Dhammayangi

 

Of all the temples we have discovered this day, we spent the most time at the Dhammayangi Temple. Maybe it was the extra energy we got from the lunch, but me and BurBoy were up for some walkies y’all. Kaung tells us we go from the tallest temple, to the widest one:

 

 

The walk inside was pretty nice. It was 10 degrees cooler inside than it is outside. Our bare feet took a break from walking on hot stone onto a cooler and smoother temple floor. Walking inside was almost like walking in a cave, with cracks of light from the outside, piercing through the interior, which was still, thankfully, unspoiled by connected electricity and technology:

 

 

The buddhas inside, existing through the centuries, were quiet witnesses to the hundres/thousands/millions of people that visited its home. They were always there, guarding the place, always in a state of bliss and calm:

 

 

 

 

BurBoy pays tribute to some of the Buddhas. I felt lucky to see him do this everytime.

 

Kaung explains again to us about the restoration efforts being done on the walls that were painted over through the years. He shows some of the efforts in this temple. It exposed some gorgeous murals that were unnecessarily painted over by ugly white paint:

 

 

We head outside and there was some vendors selling traditional souvenirs, showcasing the proud arts and crafts heritage of the country. I buy a few trinkets, curated by BurBoy, of course:

 

 

 

As we head out to the exit, our feet once again feel the hot ground and dirt on our feet:

 

 

Temple #7: Manuha

 

The Manuha Temple is one of the must-sees in the Bagan Zone. It was one of the oldest surviving ones (11^th century), and named after the king who built it:

 

 

And it was a contrast to Dhammayangi. We walked barefoot on marble floors instead of cold cobblestones. Here is BurBoy and Kaung, barefoot and in their colorful longyis:

 

 

Nice big buddhas inside, including this 90 foot reclining Buddha, with the Burmese face:

 

 

 

Lots of other religious imagery inside. It was more developed and had more of an infrastructure surrounding it that the other isolated temples.

 

Temple #8: Sulamani

 

This was one of the temples that was severly affected by the earthquake. We could not go in but we could see it from the distance, and take photos:

 

 

Temple #9: Mahabodhi

 

The Mahabodhi was also a must-see, as this 13^th century temple was built to look like the actual Mahabodhi temple in India, which was one of the four holy sites where Buddha attained enlightenment:

 

 

This temple was very photogenic, as the exterior had very intricate stone carvings, and it had about 450 buddhas in them:

 

 

 

Lots of photos taken in this temple. And when BurBoy decided to adjust his longyi by hiking his shirt up to reveal his abs, I had to take a photo. It was commonplace for the men to adjust their longyi every so often. Kaung also did it, although more modestly of course.

 

After visiting 9 temples I felt that my feet were able to withstand the elements walking barefoot on rock, dirt, stone and marble. I felt an extra level of accomplishment being able to tour like this. While in other tours around the world you can use your eyes to see, your hands to touch, and your tongue to taste, I feel that being able to go barefoot and get the chance to feel the ground below you just added to the experience. There is nothing like feeling the earth under your feet, feeling the temples crumbling before you with every sharp pebble you step on, and experiencing it as how the locals choose to feel their home: bare, raw, real. My first world soles exposed to third world rawness was the one thing that made the whole experience extra special.

 

And it was just about to get even better, as we wrap up the tour. 

[vinapu]

You provided us with great tour of Bagan temples and I like your reflection on sightseeing barefoot although I'm not sure I'd rave so much about it.

 

One thing is sure , after stepping on monkey's poo while climbing Mt.Popa barefoot I will remember Myanmar exploration without shoes till end of my days LOL

[musgrave]

numazu - thank you for the wonderful photos - really enjoyed them -  beautiful shots of the temples (and food)

[numazu]

Day 6.9: Sunset Over Bagan

 

It was 4 PM, and Kaung had an idea. He still felt bad that I was not able to get beer over lunch. He had this idea in his head, but he consulted BurBoy first before talking to me about it. While at the parking lot in Mahabodhi he, the driver and BurBoy were debating on what to do next. I feel that Kaung knew that BurBoy knew me very well, and knew what I liked out of my tours. When they were done debating Kaung proposes that instead of going to our 10^th and last temple to watch the sunset, why don’t we buy some Myanmar Beers, rent a boat and watch the sunset over the Irrawady River?

 

It’s been a full day of non-stop touring, with the occasional food orgy breaks over breakfast and lunch. The day started up in the air over Bagan, and then on the ground in an air-conditioned car visiting the mighty temples in the archeological zone. All what’s left is the tour going on water to end the day. I thought this was an excellent idea.

 

We head over to one of the stores that sold groceries to get some beers. The driver takes the cooler with the ice and bottled waters from the trunk and fills it with the precious Myanmar beers. BurBoy and Kaung also get some small snacks to take on the boat. We drive to the beach where the Old Bagan pier area was:

 

 

Kaung talks to the lady who was managing the boats, and we soon get our own boat for the sunset cruise:

 

 

All four of us (Kaung, driver, BurBoy and myself) pile on the boat. Driver brought the drinks and snacks. On board Kaung talked to the helmsman of the boat to give him instructions on how the cruise will go:

 

 

The boat slowly gets off the dock and heads out to the river. We all initially sit in the back where the benches were, but Kaung encourages me and BurBoy to sit upfront where the table and chairs were:

 

 

Soon all four of us occupy the front, but there was still beers and snacks left in the back:

 

 

Driver gets the food and distributes the beer to all of us. There was probably 10 beers that was bought. There was also some peanuts to share:

 

 

Also they bought some “Mya Zinyaw,” which was a tamarind candy:

 

 

Lots of photos were taken. Group shots, shots with just BurBoy and me, shots with Kaung and me and shots of just me and just BurBoy. Some shots at the nose of the boat. This is Kaung looking out to the river up front:

 

 

Soon we were done with our first beers and on to our second, as the sun worked its way down the horizon:

 

 

On the way into the Irrawady, we pass by some islands with some people on them:

 

 

Kaung tells me that December is the dry season in Myanmar, and the river is at its lowest level. These islands appear during this time and locals were able to plant crops on them, since the land is fertile due to being submerged half of the year. I can see some crops growing on them already. Kaung says that a lot of people depend on the crops that grow on the islands that appear, since the rest of Bagan was arid desert and less fertile. It was a problem for the other half of the year when the people who farm here can’t rely on the islands and thus no source of income.

 

The boat stop just past the islands, and the motor is turned off as we float on the river. We see some boats doing the same thing:

 

 

We were just there, floating on the Irrawady, watching the sun set. We chug our beer, have some conversations about growing up in this part of Myanmar and depending on the river for a lot of their livelihood. BurBoy lived further inland so he did not have this experience, but otherwise they bonded on a shared experience of growing up in a country that is largely poor, but filled with cultural riches and natural wonders. It was definitely worlds away from my own, American middle-class, upbringing. I wonder sometimes if by some twist of fate I was born here. Maybe I would be happier. The grass is always greener on the other side.

 

After some time the sun was emitting its orange glow over the horizon, accentuated by the dessert air that Bagan had:

 

 

We became quiet, just admiring the sunset, our heads buzzing with the beers we were drinking, and with the boat gently rocking back and forth, it lulled us into a sense of calm:

 

 

I’ve seen a lot of sunsets in my life, but nothing quite like watching it with three Burmese boys in longyis, on a boat, with beers in hand. Sometimes the things that you don’t plan on doing, is what ends up surprising you the most, and turns out to be the most memorable thing you do. Starting the day, I knew I was going to be floating in the air looking over Bagan, and its beauty. I did not expect to end the day floating again, on water, looking across the horizon, admiring Bagan again, and its beauty.

 

I look at BurBoy and he looks back at me lovingly, smiling, looking back at me with those beautiful eyes. I did not have to say anything to him, but he knew I was giving thanks to him for making this trip special. He sits beside me and gives me a playful elbow in the chest, unable to be closer to me, still mindful of Kaung and the driver who may not be comfortable with displays of affection, whoever was doing it. But he did put an arm around me briefly, squeezing me and then pulling away. I squeeze his shoulder with my hand, as my way to acknowledge the gesture.

 

As the sun was setting I ask Kaung how long we should be out here. Kaung said it was up to us really. We could be here to the night. I ask BurBoy what we should do. BurBoy said it was getting cold with the sun slowly disappearing, and it was best to head back now. That is what we do. On the way back we pass by a temple, and Kaung tells me we do get to see our 10^th temple anyway:

 

Temple #10: Bupaya

 

This was a popular spot to watch the sunset from. I see that the temple was super crowded with tourists. We were supposed to watch the sunset this way, but I was glad that we didn’t and chose to do it on the boat instead:

 

 

Kaung was very proud of himself, because he was able to give me the 10 temples that I wanted at the start of the tour. I congratulated him for a job well done. It was a tour for the ages, and Kaung, while young and inexperienced, made up for it with enthusiasm and smarts. As we get off the boat and get driven back to the hotel, we talk about tomorrow. I confirmed with Kaung that I will need him and the driver all day tomorrow for more touring, as discussed earlier.

 

Kaung asks me if we needed to use the car tonight to go to dinner or whatever. It was available for us all night as well. I look at BurBoy and then tell him that we are tired from being up at 4:30 AM this morning, so we were just going to have dinner at the hotel. We get dropped off and agree on meeting up at 9 AM tomorrow to get picked up for our next tour. BurBoy and I pick up the key from reception and get to the room dead tired. I ask BurBoy if he wanted dinner (he says YES empatically), but he said he was super tired so he wouldn’t mind if we had an early night.

 

We shower together, get dressed and get some food at the restaurant. We get the same curries we loved the night before, and also some more Myanmar Beer. That beer was heaven sent. We finish and head back to the room. We take off all our clothes, check our phones for a bit, and then turn off the lights and cuddle all night. This was an amazing day. All because of this guy I had in my arms.

 

Tomorrow, I go to Mandalay!

[vinapu]

your reports are  more and more magic and enchanting  every day passing, Thank you for  a great work 

[steveboy]

This was an amazing day. All because of this guy I had in my arms.

 

Who says that interactions between gays cannot be win-win ?

[anddy]

your reports are  more and more magic and enchanting  every day passing, Thank you for  a great work 

 

 

agree 100%. Amazing report with great pictures, better than any travel guide book. Highlight are the stunning balloon ride pics. 

 

BurBoy explains it to me. It was called “gyam yar” or “kwun ya” in Burmese, and upon further research, it is more commonly called “Paan” (Hindi). It is betel nut leaf with some areca nut and possibly some tobacco. Reading on it more, I find out that it is carcinogenic and may cause oral or throat cancer. I’ve never had anyone I love give me something that caused cancer before. Such a sweet and deadly gift. As an aside, these are internet photos of Burmese guys who chew this things addictively:

 

"I’ve never had anyone I love give me something that caused cancer before. " I wouldn't look at it that way, as I'm sure he had no idea that this carcinogenic. Apart from that, even so it wouldn't matter. people offer others cigarettes all the time, a well known carcinogen. Some people make hte choice to consume these, and consuming it in limited quantities limits the risk as well. And consuming just ONE dose (just to try it once, like in this instance with the betel) certainly poses ZEO cancer risk.

 

And regarding the pictures with the red teeth: in times bygone in this region such teeth were actually a beauty ideal, and visiting Europeans with their white teeth were seen as very odd.

 

Day 6.25: Eating Our Way Through Bagan

 

It was only 8:30 AM by the time we get back to the hotel. We have planned a full-day tour today of the Bagan temples, which we scheduled at 10:30 AM because we didn’t know how long the balloon ride experience will take. At the room we compare photos and sent it to social media and our loved ones. We were super psyched about it and were still on a high from the great experience. Its not everyday you get to ride on a hot air balloon.

 

[...]

 

We get to the buffet around 9:45 AM, and the place was almost empty, perhaps because tours start before 8AM:

 

I can totally imagine the awe and exhilaration induced by the balloon ride. You pics give a glimpse to the awesomeness. To round it off with the relaxed and romantic sunset boat tour (as opposed to the overcrowded viewing from the temple) is no less than perfect. You certainly do a lot of thing right when going on these trip, and having good luck with the choices is part of it. 

 

However the quote above begs a question: you get back to the hotel, hungry, at 8:30, but make it to the buffet only at 9:45. What did you do in the intervening 1 hour and 15 minutes??? The shower sure didn't take that long. What are you hiding from us???? hahahha ;)

 

Day 6.75: Touring Temples with Boys: Bagan Edition Part 2

We go to the Golden Myanmar Restaurant, [... ] It ranks #82 out of 107 restaurants reviewed for Bagan, so not god reviews (https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g317112-d2100849-Reviews-Golden_Myanmar-Bagan_Mandalay_Region.html), but it was recommended by Kaung so not second guessing the choice. Kaung at the edge of the photo:

 

I pay up, it was 13,000 kyat or so (less than $10) so it was super cheap, super authentic, and super satisfying. This was my kind of lunch.

so much for rankings, in my view they are mostly worthless. Rankings force an order where often there is none. If you have 5  places with a rating average of, say, 7.81 - 7,82 -7,83 -7,84 - 7,85 the differences are minuscule and accidental, so the places should be considered identical. Yet there is an order and one place "wins" and another is the "worst". And apart from that, the personal criteria of the people giving ratings on places like tripadvisor can vastly differ, so there is no way to tell whether or not those are relevant to you or me, personally. Much more helpful is reading actual reviews, as in prose, to get a feel for what the reviewer cares about or not and give more meaning to his/her judgement. 

 

By the same token, your reports are an amazing source of valuable and usable information (apart from the enthralling storytelling, see above)

 

 

[numazu]

Day 7.0: He Flies, I Ride

 

With the ringing of my alarm we wake up at 7 AM in our Bagan Hotel room. The very long day we had yesterday had us fall asleep right away last night. Today was no different. It was a big day for both of us. I have to make my way back to Mandalay to catch my international flight back to Bangkok tomorrow, and BurBoy had to make his flight in 5 hours at Bagan airport to Yangon. From Yangon he will take a bus to his hometown to stay the night, and then the next day hop on the 14 hour van ride to Bangkok.

 

I will not pretend to know how the citizens of Thailand’s neighboring country’s can just come and go as they please through Thailand’s porous borders, without much thought about passports or visas or overstaying. Even with my little episode with Cambodia Boy about his passport and visa expiring weeks before our flight from Bangkok to Phnom Penh, which necessitated him sneaking across the border to Cambodia and get a new passport, I still don't understand how they can just do that. Exit stamps were not needed apparently, but it meant me flying alone to meet him at PP.

 

Before meeting in December, BurBoy spent a whole month in Myanmar and tried to get a passport, as well as get a job that earned a living wage. Unfortunately, he was unsuccessful in doing both. The passport was going to take months to get, and the jobs just weren’t there. He told me he has been invited back to his old job and can go back after I leave in January, and that he will just get a passport at the Myanmar Embassy in Bangkok. That still didn’t answer the question on how he can just go back to Bangkok, by land, without a passport. He has a work ID that he uses to work in Thailand, kind of a special one that certain Myanmar people have to be able to work in Thailand. Maybe that was enough? I don’t know.

 

So we wake up, shower together, no hanky panky this time, since we both were leaving the hotel so we need to pack and of course eat the generous buffet they had here. After the shower we pack up our stuff. BurBoy asks me to take some of his things with me, since I had the advantage of check-in luggage and a car that will take me all the way to Mandalay Airport tomorrow. He rearranges his big bag and transfer some clothes he wont need on his quick hometown trip, as well as some souvenirs he bought and his aunt bought to give to his mom and dad back in Bangkok. He hands me the luggage, and tell me that “Bag have ice na. Many many ice!” He was joking of course. If they found ice in my luggage, I will be spending the rest of my days at the infamous “Bangkok Hilton.”

 

After packing we had over to the breakfast buffet, famished after having an early dinner and long night’s sleep. The restaurant was half full this time, and still we got seats closest to the lake: 

 

 

We do our best to fill up for our respective travel ahead, while enjoying the view of the river and Mt. Popa in the distance:

 

 

BurBoy was kind of subdued this morning. He had a lot in his mind. He was leaving his home country again for Bangkok, after being here for a month, the longest he has probably spent here since he was young boy. He wanted to find a good job but couldn’t find anything that made worth his time. Bangkok was still way more lucrative. He has a good thing going with his restaurant job, having known the owner and some of the staff since he he came to Bangkok many years ago. He will spend some time with his aunt and cousins in his hometown tonight, before heading back to Bangkok tomorrow.

 

Over breakfast we talked briefly about today’s travel. He was jealous that I was going to Mt. Popa today, and he said he wishes he could go with me. I thought about and then I gave him a choice: he could go to Mt. Popa with me today, and then we both head to Mandalay to stay the night, and we can change his flight from his original flight (Bagan to Yangon) to a new one that takes him from Mandalay to Yangon. Since he will be with me in Mandalay tonight, he has to skip going to one of the two White Party nights we intended to attend together. Even with today’s plans followed, he was not sure if he would be up for attending the first night back in Bangkok partying anyway, since he just came from a 14-hour bus ride to Bangkok.

 

If he came with me today, it works out for my butterfly needs. I will be looking for either MuscleBoy or ShanBoy to be my companion to my first White Party night. Plus, I would rather discover Mt. Popa and Mandalay with BurBoy anyway. I have enjoyed touring his home country through his eyes, and it just would not be the same experience without him.

 

He warmed up to the idea of him changing flights and days to go back to Bangkok. He has heard a lot of things about Mt. Popa, and he agreed that as long I was in Myanmar, he should be there for me. I look quickly online for flights from Mandalay to Yangon tomorrow, but could not find any. We can shop around the Bagan airport in a moment to see if we can make this happen. I was even amenable to buying a whole new ticket at a different airline, and defaulting on our old ticket, just to make this happen.

 

We finish breakfast and head back to the room. We take our bags and give the room a final once over and head to reception. I see Kaung already at reception. I give the keys to the lady at the counter and she calls some staff to check on the room. After a few minutes we get the OK and we head over to the car. We now see two drivers in the car, with one sitting in the passanger side. Kaung says that it is normal for drivers to be in tandem when driving long ways. I get two drivers on my drive back to Mandalay, much like the father-son combo in the taxi heading to Bagan.

 

While on our way to Nyaung U airport, BurBoy and I discuss the potential change in plans with Kaung. The car is parked and Kaung, BurBoy and I head over in the airport to see if we can do a ticket change. We find the Air KBZ counter:

 

 

and BurBoy and Kaung talk it over with the lady in the counter about the change. We all get invited to the office at the back so the lady can use the computer to see what she can do for us. After a few minutes she says that there is only one flight to Yangon from Mandalay tomorrow and it is an afternoon flight. This won’t work with BurBoy, as he needed a morning flight so he has time to visit family.

 

BurBoy and I go back and forth with the pros and cons of the change. He said he’d rather use the time waiting for the flight to just get to Bangkok. I offer to have us go to the other airlines in the airport to see if they could help us. BurBoy said he doesn’t really want me to spend more money on any of his affairs, and he would rather me use the money for our fun in Bangkok. I agreed, so we tell this to Kaung. Kaung heads over to the car and comes back with the driver and BurBoy’s bags. I hug Burboy and tell him to Line me when he gets to Yangon on his 11:30 AM flight. He tells me to have fun on Mt. Popa and Mandalay. One more shot of the airport before we go:

 

 

I was kind of disappointed that BurBoy wont be with me on my Myanmar trip’s last leg, but I am sure I can manage. Kaung and I are now sitting in the back while the two drivers were up front. The additional driver was also young and in a longyi. We speed off away from the airport and get on a rural road that is used to get to Mt Popa. I look at Google Maps and see that the drive is about an hour, which is not bad:

 

 

Kaung asks me if I wanted to stop at a traditional palm hut that old some palm liquor, palm sugar snacks and peanuts. He was eager to start his touring with me. I said of course, alcohol at 9:30 AM is great when on holiday. We drive for about 10 minutes and we head over to a bunch of huts on the road and park. Kaung and I get out of the car and we head over to the huts. There were a lot of tourists this morning:

 

 

We go to a nearby table and Kaung explains to me the various parts of the palm tree used:

 

 

 

We head inside and go through some items for sale, which was mostly palm sugar and peanut snacks. We go to the back to see the process of making palm wine. We some fermenting pots, with some palm sap or the Jaggery used to activate its own yeast for fermentation:

 

 

After which they distill the mixture and out comes the precious palm wine:

 

 

I also see some snacks being made in a a giant wok:

 

 

Kaung invites me to try the palm wine (commonly known as Toddy, or Htan Ye here):

 

 

I drink two glasses worth of the wine. It was actually nice tasting and kind of sweet. I discover later that it was 4% alcohol.

 

We then sit on a little table where some very very delicious and addictive peanuts, sesame, and other types of nuts cooked in different ways, were served, with some kind of "salsa" or dip to enjoy them with, in the center of the snack tray, decoratively arranged:

 

 

Kaung talks some about the preponderance of peanuts in Myanmar. Interestingly, Kaung pronounces peanuts “penis”. He stops himself when he does this, and apologizes for his pronunciation. Maybe it was deliberate? I eat the peanuts (not the penis) and fill myself up for the drive ahead. Though I guess eating some penis would not be too bad right now.

 

Next up, climbing up a mountain…

[vinapu]

 

 And apart from that, the personal criteria of the people giving ratings on places like tripadvisor can vastly differ, so there is no way to tell whether or not those are relevant to you or me, personally. 

words of wisdom. I one doesn't know the person can't assess correctly what he is trying to say.

 

There are those who will be complaining about the food just because view from restaurant windows was ugly a and will be those who will be praising unkempt hotel just because staff at reception is cute.

 

Often , just for fun I read reviews of hotels I was staying in and I'm amazed what some are complaining about or exclaiming virtues  I clearly overlooked when there.

 

Restaurant reviews are even less relevant as our tastes about food vary very widely.

Just recently in span of few days  three newbies acting on my recommendation visited Oasis on Suriwong to taste my often mentioned chicken with cashews. Feedback I received- one praise and thank you, one pretended not to notice my question so I assume he did  not like it, one did not like outright , not as much food as restaurant itself. Anybody can make out of it whatever he wishes

[vinapu]

Though I guess eating some penis would not be too bad right now.

 

 

I like you way of thinking

[Guest Stewart]

 

I will not pretend to know how the citizens of Thailand’s neighboring country’s can just come and go as they please through Thailand’s porous borders, without much thought about passports or visas or overstaying. Even with my little episode with Cambodia Boy about his passport and visa expiring weeks before our flight from Bangkok to Phnom Penh, which necessitated him sneaking across the border to Cambodia and get a new passport, I still don't understand how they can just do that. Exit stamps were not needed apparently, 

 

I also find it a complete mystery, Maybe someone knows. My "Burboy" existed in Pattaya on a borrowed ID. He had no passport. However when the pangs of love took hold I could not bear the thought of him being found out so I sent him home to get a passport and a visa. All this took a bit of cash but not a lot of time. Now instead of the tortuous bus journey from Mai Sai to Pattaya he can take a bus to Chaing Rai and catch the "easy jet" south. I may be wrong but I understand he only needs a visa to make an overland crossing. Should he fly to BKK from Myanmar then he can enter on the tourist visa, same as us folk. Having said that I might have read that this was suspended after the alleged trumped up charges against 2 Myanmar boys accused of killing a couple of brits caused a bit of mayhem and a few insults towards the Thai hierarchy. 

One other point is that he is able, quite freely, to walk across the border with just his Myanmar ID but is limited to no further south than Chaing Rai. Maybe this is because he from Shan State and they may have special arrangements I do not know for sure. He tells me it is because he is ethnic Tai Yai but I will not begin to understand about that.

 

fabulous reports by the way...and the balloon ride is now on my bucket list. Not sure about my little "pot noodle" if he is up for it. Going to take him to Hua Hin on the ferry next week for a belated valentines treat on my Marriott points. Lets see how he is on water first.

[spoon]

Malaysian and thailand gov had an agreement for border crossing where instead of passport, we can have a border pass instead, much cheaper and quicker to get, but only for area that are near the borders. I guess myanmar and thai also have similar arrangement? For us, only those who stay on the northern border states can apply, and they can only go up to songhkla area, so if they go to bkk or pattaya, it is considered illegal.

[Guest RickSJ]

BurBoy probably has an alien identification card or pink card that looks like this

http://treasurygroup.net/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/24111.jpg

Or the work permit card (green card) like this

http://webiz.co.th/files/photos/148459/77444.jpg

 

This pink card allows him to stay and work in Thailand legally. And it probably allows him to cross the border by land. Although strictly by law, he'll need a passport to cross the border but the border control landside is less restrictive than the airside.

 

CB may have entered Thailand with his passport and obtained a temporary stay visa (the same tourist visa issued to all foreigners). He probably 'work' in Thailand illegally and will have to leave and reenter every 90 days as the temp visa expires.

[numazu]

Day 7.3: Popa Don’t Preach

 

This is the part of the tour that I had no idea what it was about. I am a naturally a planner, a strategist, and have made a pretty decent career out of being able to tap into these strengths. So before I fell in love with South East Asia I would plan most aspects of my life as much as I could (career, relationships, vacations). But I discovered that giving up this control that I was used to having all my life, is needed to life to the fullest. Its probably the biggest gift that SE Asia has given me.

 

So now I go with the flow. There must be a reason why BurBoy wanted to go to this place. The drive was not bad. It was on a two-lane rural road:

 

 

Once in a while we would pass by a small village and see some kids panhandling by the side of the road. Kaung says this is a problem, as it's dangerous for motorists to suddenly stop and give them money, and its also dangerous for the kids, who are in danger of being mowed down by vehicles:

 

 

As we get close to the Mt. Popa village, we pass by a “checkpoint”, which is usually just some kid or young man collecting 100 kyat from cars entering their village, which is a customary thing to do in almost any rural village that dots Myanmar’s main roads. I read somewhere that this is a legacy thing from centuries past when warlord states existed and travellers were required to pay these tolls to enter their property. Seems harmless, but I have no idea where this money goes to.  So this was our checkpoint, the boy in white was collecting the 100 kyat:

 

 

The interesting thing was what was happening in the left of that photo. Some horseplay with two boys. Through the magic of Apple’s live photo, I was able to split the photo above into 84 frames. See horseplay in action:

 

 

 

 

 

I wasn’t really sure what was going on here, but it was actually nice to see boys just being boys.

 

We stop at the local market, and Kaung explains to me that this market was often called “colorful market”, for the rainbow colors that were found in the merchandise. Flowers, fruits, and other snacks were on display:

 

 

 

 

We get further into the village, and starting on our ascent to the mountain, we stop to take photos of the prize, the Mt Popa Taungkalat Monastery on top of the Taung Kalat pedestal:

 

 

We were not actually climbing to the summit of the mountain itself, but instead we will drive to the base of this pedestal hill, which was actually a volcanic plug. And with any culture where mountains or volcanoes dominate the landscape, Mt. Popa has its share of legends and mysticism associated with it. There is a festival in the spring where lady boy mediums (Nats) gather to talk to spirits and communicate their messages to the people. This mixture of Animism and Buddhism, celebrated against the backdrop of this fascinating volcano, makes this festival a must-see for me in the future.

 

We get into Mt. Popa proper, and it was abuzz with activity on this Friday morning. The car drops us off the bottom of the stairs to the monastery, and Kaung and I get off as we start out ascent:

 

 

It was 777 steps overall to climb the rest of the 2156 feet to top of the summit of Taung Kalat, so I will have my cardio workout on this tour. Adding to this is doing the climb barefoot, adding a lot to the experience. Kaung leaves both our slippers to the person in charge, he slipped him a 100 kyat bill for him to take care of our slippers.

 

The first third of our climb we encounter a lot of shops selling souvenirs. Kaung asks me if I wanted to buy anything but I told him I will try to shop later in Mandalay:

 

 

And then suddenly you hear it: loud screeching noises, followed by loud little and nimble footsteps stomping their way on the ceiling. And then you see it, it’s the scourge of the mountain, the macaques:

 

 

 

You see them solo at first, and then they quickly occur in groups, just being monkeys. Kaung cautions me to not get too close and to not feed them.  They are known to bite and be aggressive. There were some locals who were professional monkey “shoo-ers”, driving the monkeys away from the throngs of visitors.

 

We get close to the summit and see the gilded structures that can be seen from the base. We try to get closer but a macaque was sitting guarding the place:

 

 

At the summit we can see some of the other gilded structures, under renovation:

 

 

 

 

Lots of photos taken here. Here’s one of the actual summit of Mt. Popa, which was 4981 feet above sea level:

 

 

Down below, the village:

 

 

While up here I took a deep breath to take in the clean mountain air and just appreciate the whole experience. I love mountains, and the urgency of work and daily life back home do not afford me too much time to appreciate it. This mountain, with all its religious trappings and wonderful stories surrounding it, will inspire any hardened person:

 

 

Lots of plaques that were paid for by generous donors who contribute to the upkeep of this place, including one from back home in California:

 

 

Since this is a monastery, lots of religious imagery in the vicinity of course:

 

 

 

 

Kaung was patient with me taking lots of photos, and offers to take some of me when he thought it was warranted. He had a lot of information on the monastery, the locals, and thoughts about Buddhism in general. He asks me at certain points if I was tired. This was great cardio so I told him this exertion is good for me. He says that he is used to this climb, and on certain weeks he does this climb even twice in one day. It took us about 30 minutes to get up to the Taung Kalat summit with various stops for photos and touring, so it was a breeze, but I was glad that he was concerned if the 777 steps were bothering me.

 

So no trip would be complete without my boywatching series, Mt. Popa edition, Boywatching #5:

 

 

 

 

 

 

We start heading down the steps:

 

 

At the base two macaques bid us farewell:

 

 

Next up… Mandalay